I would like to hear what others use, or do to maintain their antique Winchesters steel and wood patina. I keep hearing and seeing on the net talks about Rennaisance Wax. Is this product good for protecting antique finishes? As for the wood, any products recommended? Or should the stocks be left alone?
August 27, 2014
November 1, 2013
March 31, 2009
I wipe the metal down with Break Free CLP and use Old West Snake Oil Formula No. 2 on the stocks.
Does the Snake Oil No. 2 take away any of the rustic look? I don’t want it to look too new compared to the rest of the gun. Newer scratches, yes. Don’t want those for sure.
Bri Wax in ebony or dark brown on both metal and wood. Google it.
I did–not cheap. But being a furniture wax, does it leave an unnatural shine? I know some like shiny guns, I don’t.
Cheap? One can will last you a lifetime. It pretty much looks like you just wiped your gun down with a light coat of oil. It’s part of my 43 year finishing routine for the guns I have made. I make guns that look antique when I’m done.
June 4, 2017
I use Johnson Paste Wax in the red and gold can, it’s a hard wax, not liquid. Apply and let set for a couple hours, then rub off with a micro fiber rag. You can use on wood or metal, it puts a shine on and makes blue or case colors brighter. Finger prints wipe off with a rag and the wax lasts for months. If you handle the gun it protects the finishes. It can be removed at anytime with Scotts Liquid Gold, just mist a little on a rag and wipe. By using wax you avoid the greasy look of Snake Oil. If Snake Oil is over applied your gun feels greasy. Nothing wrong with Snake Oil, just I like the clean look and durability of wax. If your gun has active rust, wax is not as good as Snake Oil or Scotts Liquid Gold. T/R
March 15, 2020