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I was looking at one of the fancier auctions coming up and they talked about using a Ultraviolet light in terms of determining the bluing on the guns.
Like many of us I know some or most of the telltale signs that a rifle has been re-blued, so what is the light all about? And since I am on the subject how do you know it was, or was not, an old factory re-bluing?
Cheers
Kirk
Kirk, On antique Winchesters it’s easier to detect modern blue or cold blue by high intensity light. I use a Larry light, it’s a $10 purchase at the counter of your local hardware store. It’s about the size of a Sharpe with eight led lights in a row, powered by two double A batteries. The light creates a high intensity shadow free light, when held 3-6 inches from the original blue it allows you to see into the grain of the blue. Old blue will show it’s age by reflecting red or rusty brown grains mixed in the blue color. At some point in the 1920’s Winchester went to a more modern blue and this method isn’t as fool proof, but you can still spot cold blue. Cold blue has no shine or depth, modern blue will be shinny but lacking the depth, grain, and red color. Guns for the 1940’s and later are hard to tell. I’m sure if you spend a couple hours at a gun show with a Larry Light you will be able tell. This method along with the your normal inspection of buffing, polishing, screw head dishing, and thinned stamping will tell you in minutes if iit’s real or not. At a gun show on antique guns, I can tell in seconds without even picking up the gun. $10 well spent. T/R
TR,
That was some tutorial. Most informative. I deal with guns prior to 1900 so this seems to simplify things for me. Can’t believe I never knew this very valuable technique. MANY thanks! On my way to Loews.
Cheers
Kirk
Kirk, It also helps to tell “real” old patina from smooze. The patina will show the red grains, cold blue will not. I have no experience with ultraviolet light. T/R
TR said
Kirk, On antique Winchesters it’s easier to detect modern blue or cold blue by high intensity light. I use a Larry light, it’s a $10 purchase at the counter of your local hardware store. It’s about the size of a Sharpe with eight led lights in a row, powered by two double A batteries. The light creates a high intensity shadow free light, when held 3-6 inches from the original blue it allows you to see into the grain of the blue. Old blue will show it’s age by reflecting red or rusty brown grains mixed in the blue color. At some point in the 1920’s Winchester went to a more modern blue and this method isn’t as fool proof, but you can still spot cold blue. Cold blue has no shine or depth, modern blue will be shinny but lacking the depth, grain, and red color. Guns for the 1940’s and later are hard to tell. I’m sure if you spend a couple hours at a gun show with a Larry Light you will be able tell. This method along with the your normal inspection of buffing, polishing, screw head dishing, and thinned stamping will tell you in minutes if iit’s real or not. At a gun show on antique guns, I can tell in seconds without even picking up the gun. $10 well spent. T/R
TR and Kirk,
I find this subject to be highly educational and rarely discussed. For anyone that has guns stored in safes who have ever shined a light into it, these colors and the use of a light to study the finish are one of the first things they learn about, yet, I can count on one hand the number of times I have seen the subject discussed by other people in the 25 years I have enjoyed this hobby. I think Winchester might have begun the “more modern blue” in the very early 1920s.
TR, thanks for the lesson! Kirk, thanks for the initial post!
James
The more “modern” blue actually began in the 1930s when Winchester abandoned “rust” bluing as the standard method, and adopted the Du-lite bluing formula.
The use of a bright portable LED light to inspect the bluing has been around for about 20-years, and it definitely works well.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
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