I have a question about the codes on #21 sights. I have an 86 in 33wcf with a #21 on it, coded WR. This sight was not factory installed, all be it well done, and by appearance period. I have been told the WR was substituted for NI coded because of the trajectory of the 33 was more inline with calibers available in the 95’s. Any truth to this?
NI is the code for .33 in the 1930 Lyman cat. I have earlier catalogs, but the code chart is missing in them.
That would be a stunning ’86 without the sling, but the sling puts it over the top. Whoever ordered it that way, along with the SG butt, was a real rifleman & hunter.
Thanks Clarence for the compliment. It is a really fine rifle. It was made in 1902, doesn’t letter with sling but it is definitely Winchester as the stitching is broken at the buckle and it is stamped with patent date. Can you tell me when the NI coded sights became available?
oldcrankyyankee said Can you tell me when the NI coded sights became available?
I checked again & find that the 1903 lists N for all ’86s, but by 1910 NI has been added for the .33, so sometime between 1903 & 1910 the change was made. Actually, when ordering, the customer was told to specify the rifle for which the sight was intended, & Lyman would select the right sight.
Thanks to all for the compliments! It means a lot coming from all of you. Still would like to know about the WR coded sight. I have shot this several times and it is an absolute hammer, Dropped a nice 8 point 160# white tail at 100 yards with her last year. love the sight! Also any sugestions on preserving the leather strap? it’s a bit dry and cracked but still supple and sturdy.
oldcrankyyankee said
Thanks to all for the compliments! It means a lot coming from all of you. Still would like to know about the WR coded sight. I have shot this several times and it is an absolute hammer, Dropped a nice 8 point 160# white tail at 100 yards with her last year. love the sight! Also any sugestions on preserving the leather strap? it’s a bit dry and cracked but still supple and sturdy.
From my experience, the WR code was always for the Model 1895. To condition and protect antique leather, I’ve used Pecard’s Antique Leather Dressing with great results. I’ve used it on antique holsters, ammo belts, and old leather slings like yours. Here’s a link and a little goes a long ways.
https://pecard.com/products/antique-leather-care-products/antique-leather-dressing/
Don
oldcrankyyankee said it’s a bit dry and cracked but still supple and sturdy.
First & foremost, don’t use it to carry the rifle; any saddle or leather shop can make a close copy that will serve that utilitarian purpose. (I’m speaking as someone who’s broken more than one vintage sling.) Second, don’t use neatsfoot oil on it, which eventually oxidizes into an acidic by-product. I guess the most readily available treatment is Lexol, but museums apply vaseline dissolved in a solvent, because it’s absolutely stable chemically & never breaks down as do animal-derived oils.
I don’t think the WR sight constitutes any great mystery. The owner who installed it happened to have it at his disposal, or obtained it locally, rather than ordering from Lyman. It was a relatively expensive sight, so why buy a new one if you’ve got one that will serve the purpose? That’s sure what I’ve always done–used a sight I already had if possible, regardless of code, rather than search for another.
As for the diff between the N & NI sights, I can’t see what practical difference it makes when most shooters are GUESSING at the range, & few are good guessers.
The WR in the 1906 catalog is listed for 95 all cals except 38-70 and 40-72, WT would be for the black powder 38 and 40
86 N all all, except 33, and 33 being NI
94, D 32-40, 38-55, DA 25-35, 30-30, and 32S
92, DB, all cal
I don’t see any difference between the WR and NI, hole spacing is the same
I sort of agree with Clarence. With any adjustable sight you just shoot the gun then adjust as necessary. Now if it were a fixed front sight then you’d use Kentucky windage. I was taught to shoot my rifle and learn where it shoots. Then adjust myself.
But if you want it factory correct that is a different story.
Chuck said
I sort of agree with Clarence. With any adjustable sight you just shoot the gun then adjust as necessary. Now if it were a fixed front sight then you’d use Kentucky windage. I was taught to shoot my rifle and learn where it shoots. Then adjust myself.
Unless your intended target does you the favor of standing still beside a yardage marker, that’s the “hunterly” way of shooting. Fiddling with sight adjustments is a recipe for missing.
Target shooting at known ranges is of course a different game altogether.
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