Where are the pictures?

I found them.  Thanks.

If you’re happy with that condition, you probably won’t find another for a much better price.  It shows signs of use and some neglect.  There looks like there may be a crack in the stock at the toe.

 It might even clean up and look a little better.  The 32 isn’t as popular as the 30 with most collectors but it has a following.

I can’t tell for sure but the wood may have some extra finish added.  The metal looks original to me.

Slav,

Although I don’t have Bert’s eye or anything like his experience, after looking at the photos I concur the metal finish is original. I also think the buttstock’s factory lacquer finish is original although, because of its apparent greater shine, the forearm may have been wiped down with an oil based varnish (e.g. Birchwood Casey’s Tru-Oil) but not rubbed out properly.  There are two things I really like about the gun: First, the screw slots have not been messed with, as far as I can see.  Second, the wood is still proud of the metal at their various junctions.  Combined, those two things indicate (to me, anyway) a blacksmith has likely not tried to disassemble and in the process distort or damage the fairly complex lockwork of these guns.  If the bore is in nice shape – and it could be since the gun was serialized well after 1927 when Remington Kleanbore primers made their appearance – what you’re looking at is a pretty much all-original M64 that’s been used but not badly abused. I’d bet a donut it’s been carried a lot more than it’s been shot, too, like most high power sporting rifles.

Done with some knowledge and discretion, the wood scratches can be steamed out and spot-refinished. It isn’t necessary or desirable to take the stock down to bare wood and lose the remaining factory finish. The lacquer is cured and can be improved with one of several wipe-on hardening oil varnish products that can consolidate well with what’s left of the factory lacquer. What it takes is patience and discretion, using a large number of thin coats, each allowed to dry thoroughly and then knocked back with some 4-0 wool.  Rub out the final coat with a little pumice in oil.  What you can wind up with is a very nice, subdued satin finish that won’t entirely conceal its history but will still be quite handsome and reasonably authentic in appearance. 

I would resist the temptation to reblue the metal but rather wipe it down with one of the higher-tech anti-rust compounds (e.g. BreakFree CLP) that will get under the rust in any pits and eventually break a lot of it loose. BreakFree is what I’m familar with but there are others.  The tendency of BreakFree and similar compounds to get underneath and uproot bright nickel finishes will do the same trick to oxidized steel, beneficially.  

If I were buying this M64, I’d take it to a gunsmith I trusted to carefully disassemble, de-junk and clean and lubricate its lockwork and other inner components. That done, I think you’d have something to use and be proud of.  Certainly worth what the store is asking…with room for the gunsmith’s fee. 

And you will have rescued a piece of firearms history — a good thing to do.  My ten cents, anyway. 

(added 12/7/23)  P.S.  From the closeup photo of the front sight ramp and hood, it looks like the hood is a genuine WRA #3277 hood, which is correct for the Model 64 and those are not easy to find these days.  I”d guess the front bead in the dovetail is probably the original factory bead, matching the rear WRA open sight.  So, it looks like the sighting equipment is original factory stuff, too.  Always a plus. 

(added 12/7/23)  P.P.S. There is definitely a crack in the toe of the stock, and if the line is visible from the opposite face of the stock, it’s more than a little likely that triangular piece of Walnut was split off and re-glued.  As we all know, that damage is a risk that comes with handsome steel buttplates when the rifle is dropped butt-first onto a hard surface from any height beyond a very few inches.  Once we accept the gun is not pristine, I think that typical repair just adds to the warmth and charm of the piece. Assuming the repair is sound and doesn’t need to be redone, just spot refinish over the line. If there is any depth at all to the repaired line, wipe some pore filler into it first and then spot refinish.  I suggest black TimberMate, a product of Oz that works well.  Whatever you do, don’t try to match color to the wood in order to “hide” it.  It’ll hide about like a sore thumb….