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Is there a resource that provides the measurements of the ‘76 stocks? Length, diameter at wrist, drop, etc? I know there were custom orders, just looking to see if there was a “standard” for off the rack rifles.
I’m working on a shotgun style butt-stock and rather than trust the blank that I ordered, I would check it against the numbers.
Appreciate any guidance.
Thank you
Justin
If you run the serial number they can tell you what it was or you would have to take measurements off a standard gun and compare. It would go by length of pull, drop and maybe a few more if its real fancy.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Thanks Bob. The Cody letter just says “Shotgun Butt”. Is there another service that I’m not aware of? I can beg some owners for measurements. But thought it might be a standard. This is all new to me. I appreciate the help.
justin.
Justin, In the Pirkle book page 120-123 he gives designs and measurements. You might find that helpful. Winchester Lever Action Repeating Firearms volume 1 by Arthur Pirkle.T/R
JustinG said
Thanks Bob. The Cody letter just says “Shotgun Butt”. Is there another service that I’m not aware of? I can beg some owners for measurements. But thought it might be a standard. This is all new to me. I appreciate the help.justin.
If the letter does not state anything special than its a standard.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
Thanks guys. I have Arthur’s book, and have these number as a start. I’m sure the stocks being kicked out are fairly common.
You didn’t mention whether the blank is one you purchased or are you starting from scratch? If you bought a blank that is already semi shaped and cut for tangs, then the outside dimensions should already be close to what you want. Sand it down to meet the frame and butt plate. My .50 Express is 1.45 wide at both ends and 1.63 near the middle. Taper should be very gradual. If you bought a blank for a shotgun butt, then length of pull should already be correct.
Thank you. I have a few I purchased and one is not the same as the other, and just wondered what these measurements were so I can measure these out. I ordered a third from another company this morning that came recommended, and will use this one to compare to the others to determine if one is flawed. If I get three different blanks, then I’ll just pick one
Thank you
Justin
win4575 said
You didn’t mention whether the blank is one you purchased or are you starting from scratch? If you bought a blank that is already semi shaped and cut for tangs, then the outside dimensions should already be close to what you want. Sand it down to meet the frame and butt plate. My .50 Express is 1.45 wide at both ends and 1.63 near the middle. Taper should be very gradual. If you bought a blank for a shotgun butt, then length of pull should already be correct.
Like win4575 said make sure the stock to receiver, tangs and buttplate are correctly fit. I bet the rest could be off a little and nobody would notice. When sanding to fit you might have the wrong taper to the metal surfaces. This needs to have a gradual taper. No bulges. Make sure you use a sanding block and keep it flat so you don’t round off the edges.
I PM’d my address to you.
Thanks everyone. My particular issue is how the wrist end mates with the receiver. I have one that mates properly, but has other issues, and another correct is all ways, but seems to have an improperly cut wrist face ( where it meets the receiver), and is 5/8” wider at the buttplate than the other. So I’m trying to figure out which is right. That’s the reason for the 3rd on order.
I know fitting is required. Just this one seems to be radically different, and required no inletting for the tangs to slip on, and the top of the receiver won’t mate at the wrist by 1/4” and the bottom of the wrist and receiver are flush. Think tilted down 1/4”.
The only way to fix this is to elongate the bottom tang slot by 1/4” and reshape the wrist where it meets the receiver (remove 1/4 from the bottom) so it sucks in and closes the top gap.
My third stock will tell me what’s happening.
I know these things had all the parts custom fit at the factory, and maybe I have a problem child and it just a need some coaching.
Justin
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