Log In
May 4, 2025
Offline
Bought a Winchester 1886 rifle a while back and it was in eh probably 4-5/10 condition. Shoots great and action is smooth. But the serial is rough to see, I think I can make it out as 25420 but does anyone have any tricks to “raise” rough to see serials?
1873 and 92 collector
April 15, 2005
Offline
Can you post a clear close-up picture of it?
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
May 4, 2025
Offline
1873 and 92 collector
May 4, 2025
Offline
1873 and 92 collector
April 15, 2005
Offline
It appears to be 25120
The first thing I would do is have the CFM check serial numbers 25120, 25420, and 25720 to see which one of them matches the configuration of your rifle.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
May 4, 2025
Offline
Bert H. said
It appears to be 25120
The first thing I would do is have the CFM check serial numbers 25120, 25420, and 25720 to see which one of them matches the configuration of your rifle.
Bert
I gotcha I was curious if that was something I’d be able to do without ordering a letter for all 3 of the possible serials, only reason I thought it might be 4 instead of 1 is the space between 5 and 2
1873 and 92 collector
May 4, 2025
Offline
1873 and 92 collector
April 15, 2005
Offline
Cowboy103 said
Bert H. said
It appears to be 25120
The first thing I would do is have the CFM check serial numbers 25120, 25420, and 25720 to see which one of them matches the configuration of your rifle.
Bert
I gotcha I was curious if that was something I’d be able to do without ordering a letter for all 3 of the possible serials, only reason I thought it might be 4 instead of 1 is the space between 5 and 2
If you are a CFM member, you only need to request the research sheets.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
May 2, 2009
Offline
Cowboy, My money is on 25420. I would call and give them the configuration of the gun you have and the three serials you think it is and if they have a match have them send you the sheet on it but if there is multiple hits then you going to have the serial number lifted by acid.
Just got back from Tulsa and they had many 66 carbines and rifles in the $5000 to $6000 range. Once you got below 5K they got pretty rough.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
December 9, 2002
Offline
I do like the advice given above from the experienced members.
Here’s another option from Mark Douglas.
Anthony
October 29, 2011
Offline
Anthony–good job, you beat me to it, I watched Marks video Yesterday…Bill
December 9, 2002
Offline
Bill,
It’s such a luxury to be able to watch a member like Mark, and have is knowledge available through his great videos, that we all enjoy.
I don’t think it would do this rifle any disservice, to do what Mark has suggested. I think by the pictures indicating the condition of the rifle, and solidifying the serial number, removes any future doubt to the number on the tang. We’re just caretakers, and down the road there would always be doubt, to interpretation of the serial number.
Anthony
September 19, 2014
Offline
Anthony, I would see what the records search idea to try to match it that way first. The system Mark showed requires metal prep that would be totally out of line with the condition of the rest of the rifle. It also would always still be available later if desired. Tim
November 27, 2013
Offline
tim tomlinson said
Anthony, I would see what the records search idea to try to match it that way first. The system Mark showed requires metal prep that would be totally out of line with the condition of the rest of the rifle. It also would always still be available later if desired. Tim
I would agree that a records search at the museum would be the best first step. Hopefully, that will bring clarity, and no further action is required.
The chemical method I demonstrated in the video is for serial numbers that have been completely removed or that are missing due to corrosion. In that case, it’s necessary to polish out the area which, of course, destroys any remaining finish. The area can be “aged back”, but it’s nearly impossible to exactly match old, pitted finishes.
However, I have had some success with serial numbers that are mostly intact but difficult to read, using a less destructive method. In that case, I wouldn’t do any metal prep or polishing and just lightly brush on an etchant with a Q-Tip. Many times, the numbers will clarify with minimal impact on a degraded finish like we see on the OP’s 1886. The finish has already been etched by light corrosion and pitting from natural forces, so the impact of the chemical etchant usually isn’t very noticeable when done.
I would certainly suggest trying this method on marginally readable serial numbers before polishing them out and using the more invasive method for pulling missing serial numbers that I showed in the video. Mark
December 9, 2002
Offline
Tim and Mark,
I certainly value both of you’re experienced opinions, and will take it under advisement, as needed.
Great advice!
Anthony
May 4, 2025
Offline
Thanks everyone I’m definitely gonna try to call the museum and see what they come up with. Bob yea that’s kind of the price I figured they’d be but honestly if I found the right one for 5 that would be alright with me probably. And mark thank you for all you do with the YouTube channel it’s helped me a good bit before, I’m gonna blame the video of you test firing the old 66 on my desire to find one shootable condition just to have!
1873 and 92 collector
November 7, 2015
Offline
Another low-impact method is to try different lighting and a good camera. Even a basic smart phone camera properly used with the right lighting (I have good luck with LED lamps) from several angles will “see” things the naked eye will miss. I have used this method to identify lightly etched or stamped numbers on machine parts many times.
Mike
1 Guest(s)
