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January 18, 2020
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Has anyone replaced a barrel on an 1873 carbine? If so, what would you recommend for a barrel vise and action wrench?
January 18, 2020
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Rather than an action wrench, I’m thinking it might be best to use a piece of oak 1 5/8″ x 3/4″ x 2′ through the carrier shaft.
Rifling is worn down to ineffective. The carbine barrel is too thin for an insert. It is either a new barrel or make the rifle a wall flower.
Sparky said
The carbine barrel is too thin for an insert. It is either a new barrel or make the rifle a wall flower.
Have you been told that by one of the companies doing lining work? The best liners (like T.J.’s) are pretty think, but Redman’s are so thin I’d be surprised if they couldn’t be used.
Sparky, I have seen barrels removed but never with a piece of wood thru the carrier shaft. The barrel can be really tight, get help. I have seen the results of attempts gone wrong. T/R
You will need the proper sized set of aluminum barrel blocks. If you don’t have these, take it to someone who does along with your “new” replacement barrel. It should take no longer than 10 minutes to spin off the old barrel and replace it with the new. As far as an action wrench for flat sided receivers, an 18″ or larger crescent wrench or one of the old Fordson aka monkey wrench’s is all that is needed. The barrel must be locked down in a large vise with the blocks and the Crescent wrench jaws lined with paper board, sheet lead, sheet copper, etc. The blocks should be kept as close to the receiver as possible and the wrench as close to the barrel as possible on the action. Don’t try Brute force turning the barrel off, the use of a large wooden mallet or dead blow hammer on the end of the wrench (keep strong tension on the wrench when hitting) works wonders to break the receiver loose. There are other ways around the barn but this works for me with no collateral damage to receiver or barrel….. Best of luck with your project!
Erin
Unless the gun is a total wreck, preserving the original brl by lining it, if possible, will better preserve its value. A ’73 with a new brl is in the same class (or worse) as a ’73 repro.
January 18, 2020
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clarence said
Have you been told that by one of the companies doing lining work? The best liners (like T.J.’s) are pretty think, but Redman’s are so thin I’d be surprised if they couldn’t be used.
Redman’s does not recommend liners for 1873 carbines:
| Reline & chamber to 38-40 or 44-40 in Win. 1873 | starting at $425.00 |
| 38-40 1-25″T(.400″ groove), 44-40 1-25″T(.428″ groove). No carbines or bbls. less than .800″ O.D. at muzzle. |
|
Sparky said
Redman’s does not recommend liners for 1873 carbines:
Thank’s Sparky–not aware of that. Also, not aware that Redman’s is now charging that much! For that price, there are much better gunsmiths doing the same work, such as John Taylor. 30 yrs ago, before I knew about him & others of his ability, I had Redman do a .22 job for me, & was so “happy” with the results, that I sold the gun as quickly as I could.
January 18, 2020
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Erin Grivicich said
You will need the proper sized set of aluminum barrel blocks. If you don’t have these, take it to someone who does along with your “new” replacement barrel. It should take no longer than 10 minutes to spin off the old barrel and replace it with the new. As far as an action wrench for flat sided receivers, an 18″ or larger crescent wrench or one of the old Fordson aka monkey wrench’s is all that is needed. The barrel must be locked down in a large vise with the blocks and the Crescent wrench jaws lined with paper board, sheet lead, sheet copper, etc. The blocks should be kept as close to the receiver as possible and the wrench as close to the barrel as possible on the action. Don’t try Brute force turning the barrel off, the use of a large wooden mallet or dead blow hammer on the end of the wrench (keep strong tension on the wrench when hitting) works wonders to break the receiver loose. There are other ways around the barn but this works for me with no collateral damage to receiver or barrel….. Best of luck with your project!
Erin
Great advice. Thanks!
The rifle looks like it was well taken care of but heavily used during its 137 year life. Very little corrosion, but completely worn out. Wood looks great. I replaced a lot of internal parts and action works great now, so it would be nice if it would shoot straight instead of bullets flying end-over-end.
I did this on my 73, well, put it back on. Someone disassembled it and I put it back together. I picked up a set of aluminum “V” blocks since it’s a hex barrel. I bought this wrench, flipped the v end over, applied some moly lube to the threads and tightened until aligned.
keywords=Action+wrench&qid=1591829924&sr=8-2
January 18, 2020
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JustinG said
I did this on my 73, well, put it back on. Someone disassembled it and I put it back together. I picked up a set of aluminum “V” blocks since it’s a hex barrel. I bought this wrench, flipped the v end over, applied some moly lube to the threads and tightened until aligned.keywords=Action+wrench&qid=1591829924&sr=8-2
Thanks for the reply. I’m looking at these barrels: https://www.winchesterbarrels.com/
I contacted them and asked them what the best way to remove a barrel on a 1873 and they suggested the exact same solution. So, I ordered one today.
January 18, 2020
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If anyone has any suggestions for where to get a new 1873 carbine barrel, or know of anyone who can install an insert in this kind of barrel, please let me know.
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