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April 22, 2026
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Greetings WACA members and guests. I’ve been I guess what is called “lurking” on this site when looking for specific old Winchester info for a few years now, and finally joined today. There is obviously a lot of specific and combined knowledge on this forum, and I thank you all for what I’ve received and I know I still have lots to learn. In the past 4 years or so, I have accumulated 30 plus vintage levers… one or two at a time including one mod 1866, numerous ’73s and ’92s, and several each of ’76s and ’86s. Just scored a solid and honest ’86 SRC yesterday in 38-56. I will be happy to participate in the individual model surveys with all of these Winchesters referenced (some are already lettered), as I’ve been a member of the Cody Museum for a couple years.
Right now I have a problem, and am hoping for some guidance on a second model ’73 in 38 wcf. This rifle came to me with a lever that when fully closed, does not reach the “catch”, as it falls short by about an eighth of an inch.The action felt tight and operates as it should, and my mind went to several scenarios as to what would cause this.
– (1) extended flat piece on rear of lever had been broken off a bit then smoothed down, causing it to be too short, (2) lever had been replaced perhaps with one that just wasn’t right for the gun, (3) lever could be bent slightly which causes said shortage. I research best I could online (including this forum) and found nothing conclusive, so I purchased a vintage and correct (from same 2nd model sn range), and this lever is the exact same dimensions visually.
So, I’m now back to square one but inclined to think the lever is not the problem.
I don’t see any apparent adjustment in positioning of the catch itself. Perhaps there is adjustment in how the lever rests horizontally or maybe a weakened spring that affects same? I have to figure how to get these two parts about a quarter inch closer together. See pics… Thoughts anyone ?
Thx-Joe
May 2, 2009
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Joe,
Welcome to the forum, Post a picture of the entire lever from the side with it in the closed position. It looks like the lever is bent.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
April 22, 2026
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Hi Bob –
What I did not mention on my original post is that the pin for the lever was (is) seized, and I could not get the lever out… decided not to bang on it anymore (well supported with stack of washers underneath as to not bend the frame) after soaking in Kroil for 3 days. But, I decided to pull the screws to remove the lower tang then wiggled it down a bit and the lever came right out seized pin and all. The replacement lever pin is seized in there as well, but no problem the replacement just dropped right in.
So with that said, the pics I posted were the original lever still in the gun, and the replacement lever setting on top… appearing to me to have no bend (all I based that on was by visually comparing everything hanging below the receiver).
Now, when I had original lever all the way out I did compare them more closely and take some pics before installing replacement lever.
And you are right, that son of a gun was well bent / stretched…. orig lever on bottom.
May 2, 2009
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Joe,
If the pin in the lever does not come out easily I pull the lower tang rather than beat on it.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
April 22, 2026
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Yep, lessons learned. This is actually the first ’73 I’ve ever taken apart, only because I had to in order to fix the problem.
The lever “catch” lines up properly now to hold the lever in place, and I was smiling.
HOWEVER, if I was smart I would have “fit checked” the toggle links to the replacement lever pin, as I mentioned the pin is seized in that one too.
So low and behold I got the lower tang, lever, etc lined up and button down, the lever spring reinstalled then went to attach the toggles.
You would have probably seen this coming but I didn’t… side toggles will not slip onto the (also seized) pin of this replacement finger lever. My luck.
Guess the guy before me figured it was hammer time as well. I believe a couple light passes with my dremel tool can resolve that quickly unless you know of a better option?
Check fit to the remaining pieces before re-assembling… another lesson learned 
.
May 2, 2009
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I have never had a issue with the toggle not fitting on the lever pin. Are the toggles a repo set? Did the pin get mushroomed trying to hammer it out?
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
April 22, 2026
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Toggles don’t look modern and I think are original, I figure hammer / mushroom effect.
I went ahead and took the lever back out of the gun and brought the lever and both toggles to my shop to do it right, in a vice.
Knocked mushroom off both ends of the pin and left a very shallow bevel with dremel, then started filing with fine diamond coated file.
The pins (.182) are still to big to go into the toggles (.145), so previous owner must have really took out some pinned up anger with that hammer.
I’m working them down slowly with the diamond file to end up with a nice smooth (and round) snug fit.
Wouldn’t think someone hammering them even that much wouldn’t fatten em up that bad, but I can’t imagine why else the size mis-match, unless the toggles are indeed modern production… but they do look old to me.
August 27, 2014
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Welcome to WACA Pioneer
Looks like you ‘id the problem
“If you can’t convince them, confuse them”
President Harry S. Truman
April 22, 2026
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I’m wrestling now with the idea of drilling that pin out (or press it out) and order a new one, verses spending what will likely be several hours filing and hoping they end up true enough round (unlikely) when I’m done, and possibly end up compromised structurally.
The things we do as a labor of love for these old rifles
May 2, 2009
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The next step to get the pin out is heat the end and press it out. My guess it was sweated in. The pin is slightly bigger than the hole in the lever. You would heat the lever and cool the pin and press it together quickly. They probably had a jig that had a hole the correct depth so the pin could be pressed in to the right depth in one motion.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
April 22, 2026
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Thank you guys for the big welcome and I appreciate your jumping in for the assistance. Think I’m gonna sleep on it and not just rush in at this point.
I’m pretty sure I don’t want to apply any heat to it and risk taking any temper out of that lever link.
If anyone has alternative recommendations on how to remove seized lever pin, I’m all ears.
Thanks again – Joe
May 2, 2009
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You have to control the amount of heat. Heating it until it changes color is not good. 250 degrees is a safe temperature for any steel. You can use a oven.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
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