Model 1892. Looking for comments|Page 2|Winchester Rifles|Forum|Winchester Collector

Bert H. said

MidwestCrisis said
Will removing the active rust with brass wool and oil stop it?  Or do you have to boil and convert it?  
  

It will if there are no pits in the steel.  I personally would avoid boiling anything.  Wet (soak) all of the steel surfaces you need to clean with the Kroil, let it sit overnight, then scrub it clean with brass or copper wool wetted with fresh Kroil.  Wipe (clean) frequently while removing the crud and rust.  The process I describe will take time and effort.  You will see and feel when the rust is removed.
Bert
  

I’ve been working on a couple that were left in the barn and had some active rust that cleaned up well with that method, just a bit of finish loss.  They aren’t Winchesters but the 92 and 94 I recently acquired had similar issues and your method has been working well.  Have been using PB blaster and brass wool.  Then the Remington action cleaner to degrease 

Good luck. Post pics of your progress

Boatman1 said
This is a great site. Really appreciate all the thoughtful responses. 
After closer inspection it is marked 44 wcf   
I am leaning to boiling and carding. I have the equipment to do this and have done a couple of win. .22 rifles. 
Good advice to go slow and use the right tools and “do no harm”.
i will post pictures when complete. Might be a few weeks. 
Thanks again. 
  

Watch Mark Novak’s youtube channel (ANVIL) and watch all his videos on “conservation” or boil/carding…might take a while but wow, good info. I don’t try to take the barrel off the receiver and I advise you not too also unless you have the gear and tooling for it. If you have a steam cabinet or pipe contraption you’ve built, you can do it in there as one unit…have to get all the oil off first but that might not be as hard on that one. Smaller parts and such are easy.

MidwestCrisis said
 Have been using PB blaster and brass wool.  Then the Remington action cleaner to degrease 
  

I dont have the patience for Kroil.  PB Blaster works in minutes, especially good for stuck screws or froze magazine tube.  Never applied to wood, always sprayed into a dropper for the buttstock screw and forend cap screws, with the wood off, not much else has been of concern.  Importantly, as has been mentioned, the correct screwdrivers for the job, and clean the grime from the screw heads before you attempt to turn. 

For that gun, save your expensive lubricants for outside/parts cleaning, good old WD-40 works fine for that, copper or brass wool of course.  Once you mitigation the rust, do what you wish.   For the wood, maybe some Murphy wood oil soap to clean, and depending on what your left with once cleaned determine whats next.  Depends on how much existing finish is left on the wood and the type of finish you want (in this case I wouldnt want anything with too much shiny finish because it wont match the contition of the metal.    Ive used Dr. Woodwell Wood Elixir for stocks that may have existing stain/finish, works great on antique furniture with blemishes.  

Ive done quite a few extreme rust mitigation projects in the past that were far worse condition than what yours looks to be in.  Unfortunately, on your rifle, I think in the end the metal is going to be pitted based on the type of rust shown in the pics and underlying condition.  Good Luck.