Texas,
I have two plain 1886 triggers in my parts. The first one has been played with and measures .525″, I would not use it. The second looks like new and measures .565″ and I would use it. The measurement is from the tip of the sear to the pin hole on the sear side. Have no idea what serial numbers these came off or what a minimum distance is but comparing the two I would not want the short one in my gun. T/R
TR said
Texas,I have two plain 1886 triggers in my parts. The first one has been played with and measures .525″, I would not use it. The second looks like new and measures .565″ and I would use it. The measurement is from the tip of the sear to the pin hole on the sear side. Have no idea what serial numbers these came off or what a minimum distance is but comparing the two I would not want the short one in my gun. T/R
TR said
Texas,I have two plain 1886 triggers in my parts. The first one has been played with and measures .525″, I would not use it. The second looks like new and measures .565″ and I would use it. The measurement is from the tip of the sear to the pin hole on the sear side. Have no idea what serial numbers these came off or what a minimum distance is but comparing the two I would not want the short one in my gun. T/R
TR, never had an 86 apart. Could tig welding and refitting fix the part?
Chuck,
Yes, welding hammers and sears is done. It takes a very skilled welder and craftsman which leaves me out. When you get done welding and filing you still have to heat treat. Nothing works better than new or quality original parts. A lot of geometry to a trigger. A good example is Mark’s video of the 76.
When I see a nice original hammer or sear for sale I buy it whether I need it or not. T/R
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