I know a lot of you have this memorized, but I was thinking some folks might like to have this info. It is a bit confusing sometimes. I pulled this off of another forum. Eagle
Rear sight:
Adjust left to move the point of impact left
Adjust right to move the point of impact right
Adjust up to move the point of impact up
Adjust down to move the point of impact down
Front sight:
Adjust left to move the point of impact right
Adjust right to move the point of impact left
Adjust up to move the point of impact down (taller sight)
Adjust down to move the point of impact up (shorter sight)
Ya I like the simple rule too was thrilled when I found out how easy it was
was also thrilled when I found out the trick of getting a scoped rifle on in 2 shots It was in the excellent Benchrest book by Glen Newick
(ballpark boresight is a plus with new scope but not necessary if your paper backing is large enough) 50 yds would be a good distance
From a steady rifle rest on the bench have any aiming mark on the center of large paper backer as your target . Take one shot holding on aiming mark.
Doesnt matter where bullet strikes the large white paper backer as long as you can see it through the scope from the bench
. reset the rifle in the rests so it is holding on the aiming mark again . The rifle has to be absolutely still now as you dial the scope settings to center your bullet hole in the cross hairs
Without turret knobs on the scope it may take 2 people to do this . One to sight on aiming mark and hold the rifle secure , and the other to move the scope settings with a coin or whatever, to the instruction of the sighter/holder person looking through the scope , to center the bullet hole in the cross hairs
now you can move the rifle to align on your aiming mark and your second shot should be right on the aiming mark if the rifle didnt move in the bags as you were dialing to the bullet hole
At the range you see hunters wasting a couple boxes of shells and frustrated that they cant even hit their target yet
Phil
25-20 said
Ya I like the simple rule too was thrilled when I found out how easy it waswas also thrilled when I found out the trick of getting a scoped rifle on in 2 shots It was in the excellent Benchrest book by Glen Newick
(ballpark boresight is a plus with new scope but not necessary if your paper backing is large enough) 50 yds would be a good distance
From a steady rifle rest on the bench have any aiming mark on the center of large paper backer as your target . Take one shot holding on aiming mark.
Doesnt matter where bullet strikes the large white paper backer as long as you can see it through the scope from the bench
. reset the rifle in the rests so it is holding on the aiming mark again . The rifle has to be absolutely still now as you dial the scope settings to center your bullet hole in the cross hairs
Without turret knobs on the scope it may take 2 people to do this . One to sight on aiming mark and hold the rifle secure , and the other to move the scope settings with a coin or whatever, to the instruction of the sighter/holder person looking through the scope , to center the bullet hole in the cross hairs
now you can move the rifle to align on your aiming mark and your second shot should be right on the aiming mark if the rifle didnt move in the bags as you were dialing to the bullet hole
At the range you see hunters wasting a couple boxes of shells and frustrated that they cant even hit their target yet
Phil
Thank you Phil – this is great information…….
25-20’s advice is Army 101 and works great with rifles where you can see through the bore….but then, there are the lever actions.
With a lever action rifle that has had the sights removed and replaced, iron sights that is, I’ll start from a bench rest and aim at a rock or bush on the berm at 100 yards and see where the puff of dirt strikes. Then its, tap, tap, tap on the rear sight until the strikes are close to the aiming point, at which time I switch to paper targets at 50 yards to fine tune the zeroing. Rear sight is always drifted in the direction you want to move the bullet strike. Personally, I prefer not to mess with the front sight once it is centered on the rifle. The only exception would be to replace the front sight with a taller or shorter one if the existing one is out of range of the rear’s elevator abilities.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
I was referring to bore sighting for any kind of sight vs. zeroing a lever action for iron sights. I’m so “old-school” some people think I date to before there were schools. I only shoot hyphenated calibers with lead bullets in pre-1930 Winchester lever actions with open sights, though I do use smokeless powders exclusively.
"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
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