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Iron sight adjustments
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NE OREGON
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August 13, 2016 - 2:24 pm
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I know a lot of you have this memorized, but I was thinking some folks might like to have this info. It is a bit confusing sometimes. I pulled this off of another forum. Eagle

Rear sight:
Adjust left to move the point of impact left
Adjust right to move the point of impact right
Adjust up to move the point of impact up
Adjust down to move the point of impact down

Front sight:
Adjust left to move the point of impact right
Adjust right to move the point of impact left
Adjust up to move the point of impact down (taller sight)
Adjust down to move the point of impact up (shorter sight)

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August 13, 2016 - 4:13 pm
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Too complicated for my feeble mind! Just remember to move rear sight in the direction you wish to go and the front sight opposite the direction you wish to be.

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August 14, 2016 - 1:54 am
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Good to share, Eagle.

I am of the “feeble” crowd too–move the rear sight the direction you want the bullet to go.

I don’t think of moving the front sight, unless it is off center, or if the back movement hasn’t done the job.

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August 14, 2016 - 2:39 pm
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Ya I like the simple rule too was thrilled when I found out how easy it was

was also thrilled when I found out the trick of getting a scoped rifle on in 2 shots   It was in the excellent Benchrest book by Glen Newick

(ballpark boresight is a plus with new scope but not necessary if your paper backing is large enough) 50 yds would be a good distance

 

From a steady rifle rest on the bench have any aiming mark on the center of large paper backer as your target . Take one shot holding on aiming mark.

Doesnt matter where bullet strikes the large white paper backer as long as you can see it through the scope from the bench

. reset the rifle in the rests so it is holding on the aiming mark again . The rifle has to be absolutely still now as you dial the scope settings to center your bullet hole in the cross hairs

Without turret knobs on the scope it may take 2 people to do this .  One to sight on aiming mark and hold the rifle secure , and the other to move the scope settings with a coin or whatever,  to the instruction of the sighter/holder person looking through the scope , to center the bullet hole in the cross hairs

now you can move the rifle to align on your aiming mark and your second shot should be right on the aiming mark  if the rifle didnt move in the bags as you were dialing to the bullet hole

At the range you see hunters wasting a couple boxes of shells and frustrated that they cant even hit their target yet

Phil

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August 15, 2016 - 3:20 pm
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25-20 said
Ya I like the simple rule too was thrilled when I found out how easy it was

was also thrilled when I found out the trick of getting a scoped rifle on in 2 shots   It was in the excellent Benchrest book by Glen Newick

(ballpark boresight is a plus with new scope but not necessary if your paper backing is large enough) 50 yds would be a good distance

 

From a steady rifle rest on the bench have any aiming mark on the center of large paper backer as your target . Take one shot holding on aiming mark.

Doesnt matter where bullet strikes the large white paper backer as long as you can see it through the scope from the bench

. reset the rifle in the rests so it is holding on the aiming mark again . The rifle has to be absolutely still now as you dial the scope settings to center your bullet hole in the cross hairs

Without turret knobs on the scope it may take 2 people to do this .  One to sight on aiming mark and hold the rifle secure , and the other to move the scope settings with a coin or whatever,  to the instruction of the sighter/holder person looking through the scope , to center the bullet hole in the cross hairs

now you can move the rifle to align on your aiming mark and your second shot should be right on the aiming mark  if the rifle didnt move in the bags as you were dialing to the bullet hole

At the range you see hunters wasting a couple boxes of shells and frustrated that they cant even hit their target yet

Phil  

Thank you Phil – this is great information…….

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August 15, 2016 - 4:35 pm
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25-20’s advice is Army 101 and works great with rifles where you can see through the bore….but then, there are the lever actions. 

With a lever action rifle that has had the sights removed and replaced, iron sights that is, I’ll start from a bench rest and aim at a rock or bush on the berm at 100 yards and see where the puff of dirt strikes.  Then its, tap, tap, tap on the rear sight until the strikes are close to the aiming point, at which time I switch to paper targets at 50 yards to fine tune the zeroing.  Rear sight is always drifted in the direction you want to move the bullet strike.  Personally, I prefer not to mess with the front sight once it is centered on the rifle.  The only exception would be to replace the front sight with a taller or shorter one if the existing one is out of range of the rear’s elevator abilities.

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August 15, 2016 - 7:45 pm
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I like the scope adjustment advice. Thanks! Eagle

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August 16, 2016 - 12:17 am
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Re the info I posted on installing new scope ….You have to read it a couple times to get concept, but once you try it the first time you are set

 lever action,    any action that takes a scope

 

Phil

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August 16, 2016 - 3:48 am
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I was referring to bore sighting for any kind of sight vs. zeroing a lever action for iron sights.  I’m so “old-school” some people think I date to before there were schools. Laugh I only shoot hyphenated calibers with lead bullets in pre-1930 Winchester lever actions with open sights, though I do use smokeless powders exclusively.

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