Care for new collection rifles|Winchester Rifles|Forum|Winchester Collector

I assume your safe is humidity-controlled. 

All of the NIB specimens I’ve bought, the packing of which I can clearly remember, have been packed in sealed, anti-rust treated, clear plastic bags. However, I cannot clearly remember whether my first long guns —  a Remington 600 and a Remington 870 – I bought in 1966 were bagged or not, nor a subsequent Browning Auto-5 in 1967 or 68. I do remember the A5 was cradled in a foam insert inside the black cardboard box, but otherwise I’m blank. I do seem to remember that new long guns used to be much more heavily coated in preservative grease than recently. 

My point, I suppose, is manufacturers have come to rely on a closed, anti-rust atmosphere more than a R.I.G. like grease, which can wear off in spots in transit. Some of the anti-rust grease used earlier can harden into a brittle, hard substance that is difficult to remove. 

What I do is carefully clean any heavy grease off any new piece with a thin, non-finish-risky, product like Ballistol, including the bore. Ballistol has some anti-rust properties. If I’m not going to shoot it soon, I run a R.I.G. coated patch through the bore and chamber. I store it in a soft, treated Bore Store case, in my safe with a Goldenrod dehumidifier. That works for me. 

I never store cardboard in a dry, humidity controlled safe because it will de-laminate.  Foam inserts will too, although it takes longer. Both are best stored at room temperature and humidity in a heated/air conditioned space.

The above has worked for me. 

I don’t get hung up on which oil, but I like Breakfree CLP.  A light coat of oil is best, especially on wood.  Too much oil on the wood may cause staining.  Controlling the moisture is important.  I don’t store cardboard boxes but I have a lot of documents and boxes of ammo in the safe.  Some for over 30 years with no problems.

Might as well throw out my free advice too, It’s worth exactly what you pay for it. I have been using Renaissance Wax. I also wipe down the bores with Hoppe’s #9, run patches until dry, and depending on the gun and whether I’m going to be shooting it soon or not, a swipe with lightly oiled patch. I like the Ren Wax for both the wood and steel. brings out a nice color to the guns.  

youthere2 said
Pretty much the routine I’ve been following.  Wondering how often they need to be inspected and how often to re wax/re oil simply keep the wood and the steel perfect.  First things first though.  The humidity in the room is too high even with dessicant dehumidifiers in the safes.  Probably easiest to just dehumidify the whole room

  

You are correct about humidity, It is very detrimental to steel, especially unprotected steel. Sweat from your hands and fingers will only exacerbate the process of iron oxidation. I, after a cleaning put them away in the safes only while holding them with a clean oily rag. I don’t even trust latex gloves.   

Ive read about every six months although I think it depends on whether it’s New Orleans or Tucson. 

Tedk said
Always had a thing for NIB guns, mine remain in the box…..I wipe them down, put them in a quality gun sock and store them horizontally. I do occasionally inspect them. Been doing this for decades without any issues.

A couple NIB Sako’s I owned remained in the box in the plastic sleeves they left the factory in for over 40 years with no problems. I did inspect and wipe them down occasionally. 

  

I hear you, I like those NIB specimens too and they’ll remain unfired in my hands and others that already have the seal broken, they get shot every chance I get. The new ones are like art to me. The old ones? Preservations and enjoyment.

Never been one for the gun socks though, I hear others tell horror stories about them although I imagine it’s user error. I take all mine out of the box for the safe and then store the boxes in the closet.

Jeremy P said

Never been one for the gun socks though, I hear others tell horror stories about them although I imagine it’s user error. I take all mine out of the box for the safe and then store the boxes in the closet.

Synthetic fabrics shouldn’t (theoretically) attract moisture as cotton or wool do, but maybe the tight fit of a sock diminishes that characteristic.  I’ve always used ordinary soft cases without a problem, but they don’t cling to the metal as a sock does. 

Gun socks are a bit of a necessity for me, Jeremy. Most of my Winchesters are stacked in a horizontal safe so a thick, treated gun sock helps minimize handling damage because as some of us know the hazard of horizontal storage is one we want to retrieve is almost never at or near the top of the stack. Big fan of Ren wax as well, will apply to any I don’t intend to shoot. Applying Ren wax is also a great way to pass the time and generate interest at a show. 

Mike

Jeremy P said
I’ve heard of RenWax so many times, I’ll have to check it out at some point. I use a conditioner/wax product for stocks, but the ability to wax the whole thing is pretty intriguing.

  

I heard about it from a museum curator. Told me all I needed to know. One jar lasts a long time.

Mike