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So far, I have Renaissance waxed four Winchesters. A Near mint M62-A, a 1903 M1894, a M75 Sporter, and a 1913 M1892 rifle. Bunch of Smith and Wessons too. Makes them shine and protects the finish. Usually brings them up a point or two in percentage. May take a while to do them all, I have 117 guns. Well, it is winter here and very little to do. Big Larry
January 26, 2011
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Larry,
I hear of some of the folks on here using this, but I don’t know much about it. Can it be used on the wood and metal like Old West Snake Oil? What is the process for applying it, just rub it on or is there more to it? I just use the snake oil because its so darn easy to put on and forget it.
~Gary~
I just started using Renaissance wax a few months ago on a tip by Texas mac , that it protects Case Color .
It is easy to apply , and have been impressed so far , using it on all surfaces. I have no longer term experience with it , like how long does it last ? ( how often to re-apply ) , and if it does provide an effective barrier against moisture and sun ? I expect most bore cleaning solvents would go thru it ?
When David Kennedy, when he was curator of the Cody Museum, mentioned that they use Renaissance Wax on their firearms, that sold me. There are two microcrystalline waxes, Renaissance and Conservator’s Wax. I use Conservator’s Wax, since it is handy at a local store. I have been using it for a few years now and my experience is the same as Big Larry’s. It protects both the wood and metal from wear of the finish and from any light rust that might happen in high humidity. It does wear off if you use the gun. I always re-wax a rifle after taking it to the range. Solvents will take the wax off as well, so I save the re-waxing until after I have cleaned the bore. This past fall, I hunted with my high condition original Winchester Model 1873. I gave it a heavy coat of Conservator’s Wax each evening and did not wipe off the excess or polish it in any way. So far as I can tell, there was not any reduction in finish at the end of the hunt, even though it got some light moisture from melting show on it from time to time. I always keep all my guns well waxed. If they are just sitting there unused, I will still wax them at least once per year.
So far, I have used this wax on guns I do not intend to shoot. Mostly my high condition guns. I never shoot my collectables. Applies easy with a finger and smells good too. Big Larry
I have been using Renaissance wax for three or four years now, maybe longer and have had good results with it. I have posted before about the Pre-Lim (same co.) concerning case color and was wondering if anyone else has used it and what was their feelings about?
I have heard that the ph values of some furniture waxes can be slightly acidic and damage the metal finish. The two micro-crystalline waxes mentioned above are absolutely safe. I have not heard of the Lyman Sheath. Sounds interesting.
Did two more yesterday. A M1892 1911 vintage 44 takedown and a 1901 vintage standard rd. bbl. M1892 rifle, also in 44. The other day I did my 1913 vintage M1892 std. oct. bbl. 44. The wax works great. Makes em shine and protects the finish. Probably a good idea to do this when selling one as well. Makes them sparkle. Big Larry
Larry are you not recommending Snake Oil anymore or is the wax for a different purpose?
I never recommended snake oil. Just the wax. It seemed to be a big deal over at the S&W forum so I decided to try it on some of my collectable,non shooter S&W’s. It works great on the finish as well as the stocks. Good protection for my guns that just sit in the safe and are never fired. Big Larry
I’ve never used Renaissance Wax before, but had read a lot of good things about it on this forum. How well does it work on weathered stocks with exposed wood grain, nicks, and dings? Does it wipe away clean or does it leave an ugly residue in these areas?
deerhunter said
I’ve never used Renaissance Wax before, but had read a lot of good things about it on this forum. How well does it work on weathered stocks with exposed wood grain, nicks, and dings? Does it wipe away clean or does it leave an ugly residue in these areas?
Renaissance wax will dry white in open pores or grain in my couple of years of experience with it. Maybe I’m doing something wrong in the application, but that is one thing that I don’t like with that product. In my eyes, something like snakeoil looks better on wood that has some wear and doesn’t have all the finish left.
I personally like the look of blued metal with the wax. The only thing that worries me is that if there is/I get any moisture in there, I don’t know that it has any penetrating qualities. I know an advanced collector who will not use wax because of that reasoning. I know a shotgun guy who uses wax on the metal and snakeoil on the wood. There are a lot of people who use snakeoil on all. I can’t say whether it’s correct or not, but I’ve been using snakeoil on the guns I use and wax on the ones that live in the safe. I do have a slight film of oil on certain internals on those waxed guns that sit and I have no plans to fire them. I also run a dehumidifier in summer and a humidifier in winter.
I look at a gun that made it 100+ years with nothing more than an oily rag and have to wonder if all of this is over analyzing.
Brad
It may well be overdoing it, but it makes the guns look maybe a percentage or two better. I have several 100 year old guns that I am sure have never been waxed, but when I do wax them, they really shine. I never oil my guns, I use a good silicone rag. Been doing that for many years, but I do like the wax. I just started doing this and cannot say whether or not it is good or bad. I am keeping an eye on them. I do not handle my guns without white gloves, and they mostly stay in a nice dark Fort Knox 56 gun safe or the closet safe I had made. Finger prints are their worst enemy. Big Larry
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