Log In
Members
Home
Add Reply
Add Topic
Offline
I have a model 67A that was bought for me by my mom in 1956. It is a fine rifle with a smooth working bolt.
I also have a model 67 which as I understand it would have been made prior to 1956 which has a very hard to operate bolt.
The differences I see is the 67 receiver has a spring at the 9 o’clock position which has to be bypassed by a ‘tit’ on the side of the bolt. Rotating the bolt so the tit rides over the spring gives a positive bolt closed configuration but to open the bolt it is very hard to get the tit to slide over the spring.
Is this normal for the 67’s to have a tight bolt or do I have a problem with the mechanics of mine? I am wondering if this is the reason that feature was eliminated from the 67A.
Thanks in advance for the replies.
Online
I believe that the primary difference between the 67 and 67A is that the 67 cocked on the opening of the bolt whereas the 67A cocked on the closing of the bolt.
Bert
Edit: OK, I was totally out to lunch on this one 
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Thanks Bert. I will be more specific. The older one is marked "67 SHORT, LONG, LONG RIFLE". It has the grooved wood which from research dates it April 1934 – May 1935.
Both of these, 67 and 67A are single shot .22’s and the do not cock by operating the bolt. You have to manually pull the "knob" out to cock them. Perhaps you were thinking of a different model?
I have several versions of the early model 67/68 with the bolt retaining spring and notice no difference in effort opening or closing the bolt. I would check for a problem with the alignment of the spring in the receiver recess. Is it bent or out of shape in some way?
The cock on opening and cock on closing is the difference between the 69A and the 69.
Both the 67 and 67A have bolts that are manually cocked by pulling back on the striker. As Rustyjack stated, there is normally very little difference in closing the bolt on a 67 and 67A so you might want to see what else might be binding. The bolts between the 2 model variations are slightly different. One has 2 flats beneath the bolt face and the other only has one flat.
The first thing I would do is make sure the extractor cut in the barrel breech is clean and free from debris. If crud builds up in the slot it does not let the extractor fully seat and therefore makes it difficult to close the bolt.
The 67 is a pretty simple tool, other than cleaning, any problem should be readily visible when it is field stripped.
Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
I completely removed the extractor and the problem still exists. I photo’d the spring which is very stiff and I am afraid I’ll break it if I try to bend it. Also the tit on the bolt has a slight ramp to lift the spring when going closed, but toward the open position there is hardly any ramp and the tit just pushes on the spring sideways. I can manually lift the spring but it is VERY stiff. Perhaps other owners of 67’s can compare the position of their spring to what I show in the photos? Thanks.
[/img]
Although the clarity of the pictures is not great, it looks like there is quite a wear pattern developed on the spring. Are you sure the bolt is original to the gun and has the same wear? If one side of the tit on the bolt is too sharp, maybe you could just polish a slight ramp to that side to let it slide more easily over the spring.
The bolt retaining pin was discontinued in Aug. 1937. I’m wondering if the bolt was swapped with another gun.
Thanks for the responses. I think the solution for this is to work on the tit on the bolt that has to ride over this spring. I think I am going to shorten the height it protrudes, increase the slope of the ramps and polish it as much as possible without getting onto the bolt’s body. I will also try to polish the spring/pin. Since Winchester found the design unnecessary and discontinued it I am tempted to just remove the spring or the tit altogether but, would like to keep it original as much as possible and still be able to work the bolt comfortably.
Regards.
Perhaps this will help others. Regarding the model 67 that had a bolt that closed, and opened, very hard; what I found was the receiver section, at the breech end of the chamber was slightly bent upward which made the area that the bolt handle contacts move forward enough to make the bolt handle contact the closing area of the receiver tighter. I fixed it by turning a piece of brass to .600" and drove it into the bolt section of the receiver. I then clamped the protruding piece of brass in the vice and gently, checking often, pulled on the barrel until I had the receiver more in line with the barrel. The bolt now closes and opens easy. Next is to take it to the range and make sure the bolt stays closed when shooting. There is no danger of the bolt opening when it is cocked as this model somehow prevents that. Thanks for the feedback!
I will add that this 67 was made approximately 1935. I found the steel to be very soft and malleable and easily bent and straightened without cracking or suffering any noticeable effects.. I do not know if this same soft iron/steel was used throughout production of the 67/67A but was surprised at how easily it could be bent.
keith said
Perh
I will add that this 67 was made approximately 1935. I found the steel to be very soft and malleable and easily bent and straightened without cracking or suffering any noticeable effects.. I do not know if this same soft iron/steel was used throughout production of the 67/67A but was surprised at how easily it could be bent.
The material for the barrel with integral receiver was originally specified as "Soft Steel" on the Winchester barrel dawings. The term "Soft Steel" was removed from the drawings in the ’30’s although the material remained unchanged until post WWII. The post-war steel used on the 67A was still a low carbon mild steel but had a slightly higher level of other alloys.
Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
The 67A is a full size rifle or adult size, the 67 or 67Y was shorter version or youth size. Both shot S, L, LR. I still have my 67A which my mother gave me for Christmas 1959. My friend still has his 67Y. My wife, kids, and grandchildren all learned to shoot with it; and although I have 17 or so other firearms I still use my 67A.
MSG USA RETIRED said
The 67A is a full size rifle or adult size, the 67 or 67Y was shorter version or youth size. Both shot S, L, LR. I still have my 67A which my mother gave me for Christmas 1959. My friend still has his 67Y. My wife, kids, and grandchildren all learned to shoot with it; and although I have 17 or so other firearms I still use my 67A.
Yes, my 67 has been a great training tool for my wife and daughters!!
I have a Winchester marked Model 67A that is 34 1/2 inches long. Is this original or has it been cut down? Thanks for any info.
What is the barrel length ?
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
830sctx said
20 inches. Thanks.
Sounds like you have a 67A Youth model which came from the factory with a 20″ barrel and a slightly shorter buttstock and length of pull than the standard 67A.
If you measure the length of pull (from the butt plate to the curve of the trigger) and post a couple of pictures of the muzzle and front sight we can tell you if it is a factory 67A Youth or a cut-down standard 67A. It is probably a factory 67A Youth as they were fairly common.
Regards,
WACA Life Member #6284 - Specializing in Pre-64 Winchester .22 Rimfire
foxfire said
Yes, my 67 has been a great training tool for my wife and daughters!!
The 67 “is not a smaller version” the 67 is a full size rifle with a 27 inch barrel. Additionally, I had the bolt was stolen from my Winchester model 67, I purchased a replacement bolt advertised too be a 67 bolt; turns out it was the bolt for a 67A and they do not interchange. I See ad’s on ebay daily with bolts for sale claiming the bolt fits 67,67A and 68 model rifles. This is incorrect. Anyone other than Me…actually tried fitting a 67A bolt in a model 67 rifle?
Only the very early model 67 bolts, those with the bolt retaining spring in the receiver, will not interchange. There is a “tit” that prevents them from fully seating in the later receiver. A model 67A bolt should work in any 67. I’m not sure why your 67A bolt will not work. All my later bolts will fit in any of my 67 or 68 models. In a pinch, if you are stuck with an early bolt, the “tit” can be ground off and it should work.
<img alt="" src="
” /><img alt="" src="
” /><img alt="" src="
” />
1 Guest(s)
