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October 4, 2011
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Picked up this 1956 94 last week and thought I’d show it off. Nothing special about it other than it’s my 1st pre 64 94. It has a bit of rust spots around it that need to bee addressed, just steel wool and oil? There is a tool mark on the lifter that I will take a picture of later today to post, going to shoot it today. Thanks.
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October 4, 2011
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King Medallion said
Picked up this 1956 94 last week and thought I’d show it off. Nothing special about it other than it’s my 1st pre 64 94. It has a bit of rust spots around it that need to bee addressed, just steel wool and oil? There is a tool mark on the lifter that I will take a picture of later today to post, going to shoot it today. Thanks.
https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/render/00-Dhr2tlvawMSNFX4TrMAMCKr_1AnQ3pv5Eb7vbRPURMrohR-l6MIRnCXK0tiBI7TPrnHjCyIZu59oV2we_kMG9A?cn=THISLIFE&res=medium&ts=1771164563546
December 9, 2002
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Congrats on a nice representation.
I’m not seeing the rust or rust spots in the photo. Maybe a close up on the light rust spot, or spots you’re talking about could help us, help you.
Most like the, “0000 extra fine steel wool”, but some like myself like the, “0000 Brass Wool”, that’s a little harder to find. Once the steel wool is used a few times, even though it’s extremely fine at “0000′, it’s okay in most applications with some “Cleans Oil”, or other Gun oil like you indicate! Balistol, is also liked by many, and a Collector/friend gunsmith here, has reminded me of.
Anthony
May 14, 2025
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Congrats! Beautiful rifle. Really like the wood grain on the stock. How’d she shoot?
May 22, 2024
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I love 94’s, and it looks like a dandy! Ive always set in with 0000SW & Penetrating Oil, it works!
But im gonna mention this i saw on a video some time back, that seemed to work great! But im anxious to hear any +or -, cause i haven’t tried it yet myself? Ive done forgot the gunsmith on the video, but he showed up close, and the advantage is, tiny spots its easier to get rust off, and quickly! But he used a penny, turned on its edge, and briskly rubbed small spots or larger. Then just rubbed the metal with an oily rag, and it sure was impressive on the video! Thought I’d mention it for a possibility, and see if anyone else has tried this? Opinion? I was gonna try it my next need to do so but haven’t yet?
April 15, 2005
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I personally do not recommend the use of steel wool, even the 0000 stuff. Copper or bronze wool (wetted with Kroil) is by far the better choice.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
June 26, 2013
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M64lvr said
I love 94’s, and it looks like a dandy! Ive always set in with 0000SW & Penetrating Oil, it works!
But im gonna mention this i saw on a video some time back, that seemed to work great! But im anxious to hear any +or -, cause i haven’t tried it yet myself? Ive done forgot the gunsmith on the video, but he showed up close, and the advantage is, tiny spots its easier to get rust off, and quickly! But he used a penny, turned on its edge, and briskly rubbed small spots or larger. Then just rubbed the metal with an oily rag, and it sure was impressive on the video! Thought I’d mention it for a possibility, and see if anyone else has tried this? Opinion? I was gonna try it my next need to do so but haven’t yet?
I’ve used the copper penny with oil method and it does work to gently scrape away/minimize spots of rust. Just be sure to use a 100% copper penny dated 1981 or older. Pennies made 1982 and later are not solid copper, but copper-coated zinc and could be harmfully abrasive.
Don
March 31, 2009
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I have had great luck using 0000 steel wool and most any oil. Lots of oil and light rubbing. Never scratched a gun. Since my garage is a wood shop I always have a good supply of steel wool. Not all steel wool is of the same quality. I get mine from a wood working store. I have also tried the bronze wool and it works the same for me.
May 22, 2024
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deerhunter said
M64lvr said
I love 94’s, and it looks like a dandy! Ive always set in with 0000SW & Penetrating Oil, it works!
But im gonna mention this i saw on a video some time back, that seemed to work great! But im anxious to hear any +or -, cause i haven’t tried it yet myself? Ive done forgot the gunsmith on the video, but he showed up close, and the advantage is, tiny spots its easier to get rust off, and quickly! But he used a penny, turned on its edge, and briskly rubbed small spots or larger. Then just rubbed the metal with an oily rag, and it sure was impressive on the video! Thought I’d mention it for a possibility, and see if anyone else has tried this? Opinion? I was gonna try it my next need to do so but haven’t yet?
I’ve used the copper penny with oil method and it does work to gently scrape away/minimize spots of rust. Just be sure to use a 100% copper penny dated 1981 or older. Pennies made 1982 and later are not solid copper, but copper-coated zinc and could be harmfully abrasive.
Don
deerhunter said
M64lvr said
I love 94’s, and it looks like a dandy! Ive always set in with 0000SW & Penetrating Oil, it works!
But im gonna mention this i saw on a video some time back, that seemed to work great! But im anxious to hear any +or -, cause i haven’t tried it yet myself? Ive done forgot the gunsmith on the video, but he showed up close, and the advantage is, tiny spots its easier to get rust off, and quickly! But he used a penny, turned on its edge, and briskly rubbed small spots or larger. Then just rubbed the metal with an oily rag, and it sure was impressive on the video! Thought I’d mention it for a possibility, and see if anyone else has tried this? Opinion? I was gonna try it my next need to do so but haven’t yet?
I’ve used the copper penny with oil method and it does work to gently scrape away/minimize spots of rust. Just be sure to use a 100% copper penny dated 1981 or older. Pennies made 1982 and later are not solid copper, but copper-coated zinc and could be harmfully abrasive.
Don
Thanks for the date, I’ll find me few, put em away! I knew the change, but couldn’t remember when.
October 4, 2011
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So I shot the thing Sunday. It shoot very high. I was shooting factory Hornady Levelution or whatever its called. It would not hit cardboard at 50 yards, and hit 6-8″ high at 25. Just today I got my order of Bear Creek cast bullets, so the test loads will begin soon. I’m in nned of a seat/crimp die if anyone has one they don’t need.
Also, it is hard to close the lever/bolt at the very last, having to force it closed. I tried Starline and WW brass and it does the same thing. Is this caused by the ejector spring too strong?
Another little notice is tool marks on the lifter. It doesn’t affect the action but I fount it odd.
November 7, 2015
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Don’t force it closed, the stuff that bends or breaks is always expensive. OTOH the lever action is intended to be cycled “briskly” so if you’re cycling it slowly that may be the problem. You may have the incorrect front sight, a taller one may help but if you’re going to reload for it I’d wait and see where those hit.
Mike
April 15, 2005
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King Medallion said
So I shot the thing Sunday. It shoot very high. I was shooting factory Hornady Levelution or whatever its called. It would not hit cardboard at 50 yards, and hit 6-8″ high at 25. Just today I got my order of Bear Creek cast bullets, so the test loads will begin soon. I’m in nned of a seat/crimp die if anyone has one they don’t need.
Also, it is hard to close the lever/bolt at the very last, having to force it closed. I tried Starline and WW brass and it does the same thing. Is this caused by the ejector spring too strong?
Another little notice is tool marks on the lifter. It doesn’t affect the action but I fount it odd.
Do you have the rear sight elevator in its lowest position? Are you using a 6 o’clock sight hold position? Winchester sighted the lever-action rifles for a 6 o’clock sight position. If you are putting the front bead on the center of the bullseye, you will shoot high.
Try seating the loaded cartridge by single feeding it into the chamber through the top of the action… does it fully seat?
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
October 4, 2011
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Yes I had the sight set at it’s lowest position.
All the brass and ammo were fully seated into the chamber. It seemed like the ejector spring is so tight to cause the hard closer.
November 19, 2006
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King Medallion said
So I shot the thing Sunday. It shoot very high. I was shooting factory Hornady Levelution or whatever its called. It would not hit cardboard at 50 yards, and hit 6-8″ high at 25. Just today I got my order of Bear Creek cast bullets, so the test loads will begin soon. I’m in nned of a seat/crimp die if anyone has one they don’t need.
Also, it is hard to close the lever/bolt at the very last, having to force it closed. I tried Starline and WW brass and it does the same thing. Is this caused by the ejector spring too strong?
Another little notice is tool marks on the lifter. It doesn’t affect the action but I fount it odd.
I wonder if this is why this carbine made its way on to the market?
April 6, 2022
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Bronze wool and oil , not steel wool .
Better to be judged by twelve than carried by six.
Grumpy old man with a gun......Do Not Touch.
April 6, 2022
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King Medallion said
So I shot the thing Sunday. It shoot very high. I was shooting factory Hornady Levelution or whatever its called. It would not hit cardboard at 50 yards, and hit 6-8″ high at 25. Just today I got my order of Bear Creek cast bullets, so the test loads will begin soon. I’m in nned of a seat/crimp die if anyone has one they don’t need.
Also, it is hard to close the lever/bolt at the very last, having to force it closed. I tried Starline and WW brass and it does the same thing. Is this caused by the ejector spring too strong?
Another little notice is tool marks on the lifter. It doesn’t affect the action but I fount it odd.
You need to let a good gunsmith look at it . It looks too nice to not work right so get it looked at.
Better to be judged by twelve than carried by six.
Grumpy old man with a gun......Do Not Touch.
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