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Hello! Hope everyone had a great Christmas!
I’m new to this forum and just picked up a very rough, lowly Model 60 last week. It lost all it’s bluing where not covered by the stock, the cocking knob/firing pin doesn’t always stay in place (!), and the stock was busted in two, nailed and taped back together. But for $35, I figured it’s some cheap entertainment for myself as I spruce it up. I’ve cleaned the metal with CLP on cloth with elbow grease to get the crud off.
At the risk of being a shade tree gunsmith, I want to repair the stock – which is split in two, lengthwise along a fairly long part of the grain. It does not appear to have had any glue where it was rejoined. I also pulled out no less than 10 (TEN!) nails holding it together, along with some old friction tape. There are areas where there’s a good snug fit, and there are areas where there are 1/8″ gaps from missing wood. I know this isn’t a high powered rifle, so I did some searching online going through a variety of techniques that folks have used. I’ve got wood working, boat building experience, and I think the most viable option right now is using a thickened epoxy mixture. I have wood flour from a previous project which I can use.
I’m guessing there is no value in the stock, so I’m not losing anything by trying? If I’m way off base, please let me know. Otherwise, here’s some photos of the previous owner’s wobby repair.
Stock 1 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W9X4iMmHuuJy1Pa99GpEEOTMRSc0npU8/view?usp=sharing
Stock 2 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t5DnQKvbTXexVRIiZvH4SKlsZvAEyEsk/view?usp=sharing
Stock apart – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w_yk6dWwIhvXF_iSEb3dFxdTenzM79J1/view?usp=sharing
Stock apart 2 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u6CjgNOoeOK4nwE7twTpNJPDc6Q6_FSJ/view?usp=sharing
Folder containing all images so far —> https://drive.google.com/open?id=19xIxmyNOOw4MU3EXsc_gY4BmvxHt7WRU
I say Go for it… you have nothing to lose, and much that can be improved.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
The other thing that had me concerned was the fact that once the cocking knob was engaged, it often slide back (fired) on it’s own, or with very little pressure. I looked at the sear and the firing pin assembly, and I *think* the sear face is worn. I’ve marked up a closeup of the parts mocked up on my desk.
The front part of the sear rests in a detent at the front of the bolt. I’ve stacked spacers to replicate the height of the front of the sear, and moved the firing pin/bolt to replicate where the sear engages the face of the pin. In my opinion that angle is too shallow.
Please see my marked up image here. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rOgrePhVYWcZdirSgz2rJ4StEmJCqIWO/view?usp=sharing
Here’s a closeup of the face where the sear engages the firing pin.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SxkTmU_xs8iNfrs-NHFCXuU8OCYyiuZN/view?usp=sharing
Bert H. said
I say Go for it… you have nothing to lose, and much that can be improved.
Bert
Thanks, I kind of figured that would be the case with this stock. 🙂
November 7, 2015
Offline
Welcome to the forum! With your background and skill set this should be a great project for you. Stock repair is an art, IMHO and as Bert pointed out you have little to lose with this piece. I believe you’re right on the sear engagement as well but I have no experience with this trigger.
Mike
Online
The stock is repairable if you need help on Rimfire central there is a section on stock repair. We lost the gentleman that was most willing to help but the posts are still there. I’ve used his advice and it worked out very well. As to the sear I pulled a model 67 apart ( it replaced the model 60) and both parts you showed are at a 90 degree angle. I’d have to dig to find a model 60 in the safe. Both parts are available on Ebay for the model 67. When I have time later this afternoon I’ll find a model 60 And look at it.
Happy New Year
Jay
knormal said
Hello! Hope everyone had a great Christmas!I’m new to this forum and just picked up a very rough, lowly Model 60 last week. It lost all it’s bluing where not covered by the stock, the cocking knob/firing pin doesn’t always stay in place (!), and the stock was busted in two, nailed and taped back together. But for $35, I figured it’s some cheap entertainment for myself as I spruce it up. I’ve cleaned the metal with CLP on cloth with elbow grease to get the crud off.
At the risk of being a shade tree gunsmith, I want to repair the stock – which is split in two, lengthwise along a fairly long part of the grain. It does not appear to have had any glue where it was rejoined. I also pulled out no less than 10 (TEN!) nails holding it together, along with some old friction tape. There are areas where there’s a good snug fit, and there are areas where there are 1/8″ gaps from missing wood. I know this isn’t a high powered rifle, so I did some searching online going through a variety of techniques that folks have used. I’ve got wood working, boat building experience, and I think the most viable option right now is using a thickened epoxy mixture. I have wood flour from a previous project which I can use.
I’m guessing there is no value in the stock, so I’m not losing anything by trying? If I’m way off base, please let me know. Otherwise, here’s some photos of the previous owner’s wobby repair.
Stock 1 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W9X4iMmHuuJy1Pa99GpEEOTMRSc0npU8/view?usp=sharing
Stock 2 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t5DnQKvbTXexVRIiZvH4SKlsZvAEyEsk/view?usp=sharing
Stock apart – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w_yk6dWwIhvXF_iSEb3dFxdTenzM79J1/view?usp=sharing
Stock apart 2 – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u6CjgNOoeOK4nwE7twTpNJPDc6Q6_FSJ/view?usp=sharing
Folder containing all images so far —> https://drive.google.com/open?id=19xIxmyNOOw4MU3EXsc_gY4BmvxHt7WRU
Most any good woodworking glue will be OK. I use Titebond. Clean the surface with something like lacquer thinner. Apply glue and clamp over night. Excess glue can be wiped off with a wet rag with no damage to the surrounding surface. With a stash of wood, slivers could be cut to fill in some of the larger areas. I use walnut saw dust mixed with glue to form my own filler. Practice with stains so the filled areas will come out more like the original color. You can sand and refinish the entire stock or just sand where necessary and when staining and finishing overlay the new stain and finish over the entire stock to blend the color throughout. Good luck and have fun.
Found the model 60 the 2 cuts you have marked should be at 90 degree angles.
Happy New Year
Jay
cranky2 said
Found the model 60 the 2 cuts you have marked should be at 90 degree angles.Happy New Year
Jay
Much appreciated Jay!
Wish me luck on this refurb, and happy New Year’s!
I’ve had a very enjoyable weekend: I spent part of Friday night, yesterday and today working on this. I drilled out and filled all of the nail holes on both sides with shaved down bamboo skewers. Scraped the wood to make sure that I had a good bondable surface. I coated the surfaces with raw epoxy so there wouldn’t be a starved glue joint. Then added some thickened epoxy and wrapped the whole thing together with an old inner tube.
I added stained and thickened epoxy as a gap-filler where needed and then used a chisel to slice off the excess. Buffed the epoxy with steel wool, Stained where needed and then finished with a good buffing.
It should be fully functional again and I would consider this a 10-foot repair, and it’s the first time this rifle has been solid in who-knows-how-long.[Image Can Not Be Found]
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_OickWljtCyx3Zz5cLTg_fFXNBUohTJ6/view?usp=drivesdk
It’ll pass a windshield inspection. Glad you got it back together.
Happy New Year
Jay
November 7, 2015
Offline
Big improvement, good job!
Mike
Thanks guys, it was fun and I feel a lot better about it. With a 5 inch glued joint on the long fibers it should be plenty strong. Latest issue I found is the screw that ties the barrel to the stock seats too deeply. Looks like the wood has worn enough over the years that it’s allowing the screw to tighten up into the sear spring making the bolt hard to move. That should be easy enough to fix with more colored epoxy and setting the screw not quite as deep.
Happy New Year!
I wondered about that but realized the issue is still the knurled knob wanting to bury itself into the wood. The collar around the knob/screw is threaded and goes into the wood, but just doesn’t have much bite. I did end up buiding up the area and it sits a bit proud now – the screw can be tightened without it compressing the sear spring now. And the bolt now slides freely because of it.
One last thing, the “bead” on the front sight is canted to the left – I don’t know if it’s repositioned like that, or bent. Wouldn’t you normally slide the sights to adjust? Are those beads adjustable, or is this just grossly bent?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11i_V771cuXWr8lwnHirzDIdN6-yxfhUq/view?usp=sharing
[Image Can Not Be Found]
Looks bent to me. Good chance that it will break if you try to bend it. Maybe a little heat then bend it. If it breaks these can be found.
I borrowed a neighbors dremel tool and was able to change the face of the sear back to being square to the firing pin. I smoothed and polished it down with sharpening stones and wet-dry paper to polish it. When I cock it and shake cocking knob it does not fire prematurely – it’s now much safer! Trigger pull is pretty light and short. It does fire an emptied cartridge just fine, and now I need to head to the range with it.
The rebedded stock screw works well and I make a point to not keep it tight while not in use as I don’t want it creeping deeper into the bedding. The only other thing to fix is the front sight bead, but that’s down on the list until I see how it fires and how it’s sighted.
This is the first time I’ve messed with a gun in this manner and I’m happy it appears to be functional and now presentable in the “truck gun” category. 🙂 It cost $35, repair cost was zero as I already had the basic materials, and it afforded a dozen or so fun hours tinkering at the workbench.
I appreciate all the help fellas, and if I run across another project rifle, I’d definitely give it a more serious look.
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