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Heavy '76 Part Two
May 17, 2021
12:50 am
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Great Basin
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I finally got the second episode wrapped up on the Heavy ’76 project.  This one’s focused on getting the set trigger working.  Thanks again for the troubleshooting help from 1873man and TR.  

I’ve made a mockup of the lower tang and set trigger assembly and am ready to weld up the hammer and recut the hammer notches in part 3.  Stay tuned.  Mark

May 17, 2021
1:36 am
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Wisconsin
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Wow Mark, You are doing a first rate job with the set trigger. I’ve worked on the 73 sets and those you can pull the tang and do all your work in the open. I can see where that fixture you made will really come in handy. Look forward to seeing the next video.

Bob

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May 17, 2021
3:23 am
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Mark,

  I can only echo what Bob had to say!  Very fine work!

Tim

May 17, 2021
1:42 pm
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Great Basin
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Thanks guys.  I enjoy machining, so this was an interesting project.  It really helps to be able to work on the set trigger components out of the rifle.  Now comes the most difficult part of this project – building up that hammer.  This hammer has been ground down far more than usual and is going to take some real finesse to build up and shape properly.  I’m looking forward to the challenge – I think.Confused Mark

May 17, 2021
1:47 pm
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 Mark,

 You are truly a talented gunsmith. As you said, making the fixture ensures your success and lessens the wear on your great old gun. As a member of this fine Association I thank you for pulling back the curtain and sharing. Thank You Mark!    T/R

May 17, 2021
1:51 pm
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Wisconsin
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Mark,

When I had to do that I built up the notches then milled the sides flat and then using a good hammer laid along side to transfer the profile using layout dye.

Bob

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May 17, 2021
4:47 pm
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Mark your videos are great, after each one I can’t wait to see the next. Even though I’ll never be able to to do what you do I really enjoy watching.

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos 

BASC member

May 18, 2021
1:48 am
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I love this stuff.

May 18, 2021
2:37 am
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Great job on designing the fixture, you could probably sell those to less talented folks like me! When I’m fitting stuff I am always a bit timid and have to put it together quite a few times, often one file stroke at a time. Thanks 1873man and TR for your generosity! One question, Mark. I never used an armorers’ block much until I started working on old Winchesters and an occasional Sharps, now I keep one handy for all those tiny pins. Mine is designed for the 1911 but it works fine for old Winchesters. It’s indispensable for 1911 link pins but I hardly ever do those any more. I don’t think I’ve seen you use one, care to share why?

 

Mike

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May 18, 2021
2:47 am
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Wisconsin
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Mark,

I assume you are already going to do this but make a template of the set trigger hammer so you have it for future jobs.

Bob

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May 18, 2021
1:18 pm
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Great Basin
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TR said
 Mark,

 You are truly a talented gunsmith. As you said, making the fixture ensures your success and lessens the wear on your great old gun. As a member of this fine Association I thank you for pulling back the curtain and sharing. Thank You Mark!    T/R  

coldweld@live.com said
Mark your videos are great, after each one I can’t wait to see the next. Even though I’ll never be able to to do what you do I really enjoy watching.

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos   

Chuck said
I love this stuff.  

Thanks guys. While I’ve tinkered with light gun repair for years, I still consider myself just a rookie at gunsmithing.  I’ve spent a lot of time and energy getting educated and have been very fortunate to develop friendships with some fantastic old time gunsmiths who have been willing to share their knowledge.  I’m happy to be sharing some of the things I’ve picked up in the process.  Mark

May 18, 2021
1:32 pm
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Great Basin
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TXGunNut said
Great job on designing the fixture, you could probably sell those to less talented folks like me! When I’m fitting stuff I am always a bit timid and have to put it together quite a few times, often one file stroke at a time. Thanks 1873man and TR for your generosity! One question, Mark. I never used an armorers’ block much until I started working on old Winchesters and an occasional Sharps, now I keep one handy for all those tiny pins. Mine is designed for the 1911 but it works fine for old Winchesters. It’s indispensable for 1911 link pins but I hardly ever do those any more. I don’t think I’ve seen you use one, care to share why?

 

Mike  

Thanks Mike.  I have a bench (or armorer’s) block but rarely use it, especially on long guns.  I use it on semiauto pistols with straight sides like the 1911, but I rarely work on them.  I just find it awkward to try to balance a long gun on them and line up the pin with a hole underneath, especially if the gun has a contour like the back portion of the receiver on this 1876.  I find working on a thick carpet remnant works best for me.  It protects the gun’s finish and gives room to at least get pins started out.  Mark  

May 18, 2021
1:43 pm
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Great Basin
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1873man said
Mark,

When I had to do that I built up the notches then milled the sides flat and then using a good hammer laid along side to transfer the profile using layout dye.

Bob  

1873man said
Mark,

I assume you are already going to do this but make a template of the set trigger hammer so you have it for future jobs.

Bob  

Bob, as always, thanks for the advice.  Great to hear from someone who has done it in the past.  Indeed, I was planning to make a template of that set trigger hammer.  Of course, I’d sure like to find a good original someday for a template.

This hammer’s going to be a bit of a challenge to weld up because of how far it’s been ground down.  I’m planning to take it in steps in a good heat sink like copper to keep from fire bluing the whole hammer.  Trying to get to it this week if time permits.  Mark

May 18, 2021
2:01 pm
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Mark Douglas said
This hammer’s going to be a bit of a challenge to weld up because of how far it’s been ground down.  I’m planning to take it in steps in a good heat sink like copper to keep from fire bluing the whole hammer.  Trying to get to it this week if time permits.  Mark

I had a hammer with some good case color on it and clamped it in a vise with aluminum pads and put some heat stop paste on it as well and it didn’t affect the case color but I didn’t try reharden the notches. The case color was more important than the notches lasting since they don’t get shot often just played with.

Bob

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May 23, 2021
4:53 pm
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Thank you Mark, most informative.  Makes me really admire those Winchester employees that built these fine rifles.  A lot of hand work went into them, especially the set trigger rifles.  I wonder if Winchester had jigs like you made for training and test purposes?

May 23, 2021
6:12 pm
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Bill,

Yes, Winchester had jigs and fixtures for machining, drilling and testing fit. I have several of them but unfortunately no set trigger jig. Here is a link to a thread on buttplate tools.

https://winchestercollector.org/forum/winchester-rifles/unsolicited-opinion/page-2/#p93296

The buttplate tools in the link were used as drilling fixtures to locate holes were the tools below are gauges to test fit.

IMG_1162.jpgImage EnlargerIMG_1163.jpgImage EnlargerIMG_1164.jpgImage Enlarger

IMG_1167.jpgImage EnlargerP4060005.JPGImage EnlargerP4060006.JPGImage Enlarger

P4060008.JPGImage EnlargerP4060002.JPGImage Enlargerpinbase1.jpgImage Enlarger

pinbase3.jpgImage Enlarger

Bob

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May 24, 2021
1:55 pm
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Bob,  You have some extremely nice items there!  Its obvious you have looked in many of the right spots to find these and am glad someone is keeping them.  Tim

May 25, 2021
2:22 am
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South Texas
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Great video Mark. Thoroughly enjoyed watching and looking forward to the next one.

 

Bob, youve got the makings of a number of good articles for the WACA magazine with all your goodies.  Neat stuff, and thanks for sharing. 

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