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little_f said
2 5/8 will fit, however the forcing cones are different. They were designed for roll crimp shells which need less space to open, versus modern star crimps which need a little more room to open. This can cause pressure issues. I took my 1897 Winchester and reamed the forcing cone so I can shoot modern ammo. When I originally bought it, the stock was cracked in two at the wrist, which is an indication of the overpressure caused by having star crimp shells fired into forcing cones designed for roll crimps. – Thought I’d throw that out.
New information to me. Very helpful.
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little_f said
2 5/8 will fit, however the forcing cones are different. They were designed for roll crimp shells which need less space to open, versus modern star crimps which need a little more room to open.
Yes, I understand that. But 2-7/8″ roll crimped brass shells will not slip into my chamber. The 2-5/8″ fit fine. If you use brass what do you do to crimp?
Chuck said
little_f said
2 5/8 will fit, however the forcing cones are different. They were designed for roll crimp shells which need less space to open, versus modern star crimps which need a little more room to open.Yes, I understand that. But 2-7/8″ roll crimped brass shells will not slip into my chamber. The 2-5/8″ fit fine. If you use brass what do you do to crimp?
I don’t crimp brass hulls. Instead I seal the shotcard into the hull using waterglass aka sodium silicate.
Regards,
littlef
Chuck said
So did my 10 ga. that uses 2-5/8″ brass shells. Believe me I tried the 2-7/8″ first and they won’t slip in.
Also here’s a thought on your 2-7/8″ hulls. If you don’t have a shotgun they’ll fit in…. take an oversized wood dowel, and sand it down till it’ll fit in the brass hull. Then, take a small pipe cutter, and cut them down to the appropriate length. The dowel will support the hull, so it doesn’t crush while you cut it. Then take a file to clean the face and use a needle file to deburr and chamfer.
Regards,
littlef
little_f said
Also here’s a thought on your 2-7/8″ hulls. If you don’t have a shotgun they’ll fit in…. take an oversized wood dowel, and sand it down till it’ll fit in the brass hull. Then, take a small pipe cutter, and cut them down to the appropriate length. The dowel will support the hull, so it doesn’t crush while you cut it. Then take a file to clean the face and use a needle file to deburr and chamfer.
I forget where I bought my 10 ga. brass but got chewed out when I wanted to exchange the 2-7/8″ for the 2-5/8″. He made the exchange though. I had planned on using rubber cement to hold the card. I’ll have to check out the sodium silicate.
T
Chuck said
I forget where I bought my 10 ga. brass but got chewed out when I wanted to exchange the 2-7/8″ for the 2-5/8″. He made the exchange though. I had planned on using rubber cement to hold the card. I’ll have to check out the sodium silicate.
There’s certainly more than one way to skin a cat. When I first acquired the shotgun, I read up on how someone would reload shells. Waterglass was a recurring theme. From what I’ve read, it was often used to preserve fresh laid eggs, so it was commonly kept around the household.
If you look in a forum for cowboy action shooting and sass, you’ll see a lot of ideas. I know people use elmer’s glue, bathroom calking, duco cement. I liked the idea of the waterglass cause it seemed to have a historical basis. –But really, someone out on the frontier, would have used whatever they could get their hands on. Waterglass is all I’ve ever used. One tip – get some Mineral Spirits and wipe the rim before applying it. If there’s any oil or wax on the brass, the waterglass doesn’t bond. A quick wipe with some mineral spirits seems to do the trick.
Regards,
littlef
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