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Bert,
In case you don’t already have it in your survey, I recently picked up s/n: 833,707. It is carbine, chambered in .30 WCF, has a 20” round barrel and full length magazine tube, and a has smooth and plain walnut stock fitted with the carbine style crescent butt plate.
I believe the serial number places this guy in 1916 with my guess of a June date of manufacture.
Aside from the rear site, everything else appears to be original to the gun. Unfortunately, the upper tang is fractured so I will need to get it welded.
FWIW, the stock has a “25” carved or stamped in it and the bottom of the barrel is marked “MNS” which I believe indicates Midvale Steel Company made the barrel.
Yeah, I like cleaning them up. This was advertised and priced as a project gun, so I’m off on my next journey.
November 7, 2015
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Alaska94 said
Yeah, I like cleaning them up. This was advertised and priced as a project gun, so I’m off on my next journey.
Apparently you like a challenge. I admire your courage and ambition!
Mike
The serial number IDs it as early February 1916. The stocks are gumwood versus walnut. The “MNS” is indeed Midvale Nickel Steel. Please post some “after” pictures when you finish cleaning it up.
Thanks,
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Thanks Bert! I always appreciate your input and counsel. I will definitely post pics as I work on this one. I thought the stock wood looked off for walnut, so thanks for clarifying that they are gumwood.
I’m planning to work on the scratches on the receiver. Given there are scratches on both sides of the receiver and in similar locations and patterns, I’m speculating they are from some sort of case or holster this was repeatedly slid in and out of. Anyway, I expect I will end up taking the remainder of the bluing off. Just throwing that out there welcoming opinions before I commit a cardinal sin. As we all have noted, this one is in rough shape, so I’m not sure I’m doing any real harm to it.
Alaska94 said
Thanks Bert! I always appreciate your input and counsel. I will definitely post pics as I work on this one. I thought the stock wood looked off for walnut, so thanks for clarifying that they are gumwood.I’m planning to work on the scratches on the receiver. Given there are scratches on both sides of the receiver and in similar locations and patterns, I’m speculating they are from some sort of case or holster this was repeatedly slid in and out of. Anyway, I expect I will end up taking the remainder of the bluing off. Just throwing that out there welcoming opinions before I commit a cardinal sin. As we all have noted, this one is in rough shape, so I’m not sure I’m doing any real harm to it.
Nothing you can do to it now is going to negatively affect or harm it… the damage has already been done.
Bert
WACA Historian & Board of Director Member #6571L
Some progress pictures. Things are cleaning up nicely. I need to schedule the weld for the upper tang and then finish work on the stock and forearm. Aside from how she looked on the outside, this one was seemingly well cared for on the inside. Everything disassembled very easily and the parts were not overly grimy. The bore cleaned up quickly and appears to be in really good shape.
Online
Those are ‘forging striations’ not scratches on both sides of the receiver. They are a normal part of the manufacturing process on M1894’s of this era. Those who know what they are like to see them on a gun
“If you can’t convince them, confuse them”
President Harry S. Truman
Tedk said
Those are ‘forging striations’ not scratches on both sides of the receiver. They are a normal part of the manufacturing process on M1894’s of this era. Those who know what they are like to see them on a gun
Thanks Ted. I had a feeling the horizontals were something from manufacturing as I had read something about them somewhere. Didn’t know what they were called. I appreciate you sharing. When I clean these up I document them, so now I know what to refer to them as.
I’m in agreement with Ted, on the receiver striations.
I’m curious to know how you plan on tackling the broken top tang, in regards to welding and repairing the broken tang, and trying to preserve the “Winchester Roll mark”! I’m guessing that it’s far enough, away from the Roll Mark, that if you keep you’re heat low enough, and tackle the job properly, you can accomplish this feat!
Interesting project, all in all! Not for many of the true die hard collectors, but it’s not meant to be either!
Good Luck, thanks for sharing!
Anthony
It should be far enough from the roll mark to not be a concern. I’ll be taking it to a master gunsmith for the weld. From what I’ve read Tungsten Inter Gas (TIG) weld is what would be appropriate.
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