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March 30, 2020
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I have an 1873 in 32WCF, the lever has a lot of left to right play, the gap between the lever and lifter is .012 and while this seem like a little amount, it translates into a significant distance at the lever lock, it can and does fall out of the lock. This has gone on for a while, the flat on the lever to depress the safety bar is a groove worn showing the wobble has been there a long time.
My temporary fix has been to cut a piece of .010 thick brass shim stock and shape it to the same diameter and shape of the round mating surface between the lifter and lever and drill a hole for the screw. This crude solution has eliminated 90% of the wobble. Just looking for a permanent solution, and what that is. I’m not sure what is worn, the lifter or lever, or both to cause this.
I have looked, but have been unable to find, the thickness measurements for both parts or what range of thickness was permissible.
Thanks all!
March 31, 2009
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Justin, have you tried messing with the set screw for the lever? On the underside near the carrier block are 2 screws. 1 for the carrier spring and the other for the lever spring. If your lever falls away from the stock the spring needs more tension. Since most people believe these 2 screws need to be tight you may not be able to make the needed adjustment. Give it a try though.
May 2, 2009
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Justin,
The lever should be .330″ and the lifter .108″ wide
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
March 30, 2020
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Yes,
Chuck said
Justin, have you tried messing with the set screw for the lever? On the underside near the carrier block are 2 screws. 1 for the carrier spring and the other for the lever spring. If your lever falls away from the stock the spring needs more tension. Since most people believe these 2 screws need to be tight you may not be able to make the needed adjustment. Give it a try though.
it’s tight that way, what I call up and down, the lever will move left to right and allow one to move it out of the lock without turning the lock. Way to much free play between the lifter arm and lever cam area.
March 30, 2020
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1873man said
Justin,The lever should be .330″ and the lifter .108″ wide
Bob
1873man said
Justin,The lever should be .330″ and the lifter .108″ wide
Bob
Thanks Bob!
So if I’m under these, the solution is to build up the material (weld) and machine it back to spec?
March 31, 2009
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JustinG said
Yes,it’s tight that way, what I call up and down, the lever will move left to right and allow one to move it out of the lock without turning the lock. Way to much free play between the lifter arm and lever cam area.
Sorry. Can this area be shimmed instead of welding and grinding? Sorry again. I just realized you had already tried this. What about a shim between the lever and the receiver placed on the screw that goes through the trigger and the carrier lifter arm?
March 30, 2020
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For now, the brass shim is good. Technically, it will wear before the base metal and all is good. I could make a host of different shim types like you suggest, but just wondering what should be done. I’m thinking one of both items are worn, and in a perfect world, a new lever and lifter arm would have been installed. But that’s not really possible now so just curious what could be done differently.
May 2, 2009
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First thing is to measure what you have and then decide whats worn and whats not.
Bob
WACA Life Member--- NRA Life Member---- Cody Firearms member since 1991 Researching the Winchester 1873's
Email: [email protected]
