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steve004 said
Chuck –
Like this one? This one did look cool:
No. That is the most expensive one made. It is the best though. I have this one. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/case-preparation/case-annealing/case-neck-annealing-machine-prod97922.aspx It uses 2 propane bottles. What makes it nice is that it will rotate a piece of brass in the flame as long as you have the timer set for. In my case only about 3 seconds.
Chuck said
steve004 said
Chuck –
Like this one? This one did look cool:
No. That is the most expensive one made. It is the best though. I have this one. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/case-preparation/case-annealing/case-neck-annealing-machine-prod97922.aspx It uses 2 propane bottles. What makes it nice is that it will rotate a piece of brass in the flame as long as you have the timer set for. In my case only about 3 seconds.
Nice looking machine.
FWIW I’ve been making .33WCF for quite awhile with a simple annealing setup of a pie plate of water on a cheap plastic lazy Susan and a propane torch. Set the cartridge upright in the middle of the water, turn slowly while heating until the proper color is achieved (after the first few the timing becomes muscle memory) and tip the cartridge over into the water when you place the next one.
Annealing machines are cool, but I don’t do this enough to justify the cost. Besides, if I needed one I’d probably engineer my own for fun. There are a few clever DIY machines out there.
Steve
WACA Member. CFM Member. NRA Lifer.
Steve, I have done a little annealing but not of the .33 Win from .45-70. Use a larger baking pan of water. Propane torch and heat the mouth to a dull red in a dark garage, tip it over into the water. Tend to also count so they are about the same degree of softness/heat. No longer recall the count, but used the 1 thousand and 1 technique. Crude. Relatively workable. I am with you about buying a commercial set up as I just don’t anneal that much. BTW, no way would I have an open flame in my reloading room! Tim
tim tomlinson said
Steve, I have done a little annealing but not of the .33 Win from .45-70. Use a larger baking pan of water. Propane torch and heat the mouth to a dull red in a dark garage, tip it over into the water. Tend to also count so they are about the same degree of softness/heat. No longer recall the count, but used the 1 thousand and 1 technique. Crude. Relatively workable. I am with you about buying a commercial set up as I just don’t anneal that much. BTW, no way would I have an open flame in my reloading room! Tim
Tim, if you spend some time on the long range target shooter or bench rest shooter forums they will teach you how to anneal brass. Go on youtube and watch the process. Heat the brass just shy of seeing orange and let it cool naturally. You will still be in the 700 degree plus range. You are burning off some of the metal, tin, when you get it overheated. Dropping it in the water actually hardens it up some.
Start watching this video at about 4 minutes. Notice that the brass never gets orange nor is there an orange flare off the mouth. The orange flair shows up first. Also notice that the brass get annealed down the body about 1/4″ and no more.
Many people have made annealers but usually lack the most important piece, a timer. You can adjust timing by using different size wheels but that is a pain to set up every time you change brass.
I am at the Cheyenne show (Scott Tarbell’s). There is over 200 rounds of 33WCF for sale around 100.00 per 20–Bill
426crown said
I am at the Cheyenne show (Scott Tarbell’s). There is over 200 rounds of 33WCF for sale around 100.00 per 20–Bill
I’m almost a millionaire!
Hi Guys,
I have been interested in a few 1886 rifles over the years in .33 but haven’t pulled the trigger on one yet. The rifles I have looked at tend to be in great shape but I don’t have a lot of knowledge on .33 caliber. Recently I purchased an 1886 in 38-56 and reformed Hornady 45-70 cases to shoot it. I experimented with annealing brass when I reformed these cases. At first I did one case using a drill and a socket then reformed the brass after. I had 50 cases and lost 7 cases and had some wrinkles in a few. I have reformed several different cases over the years but never annealed the brass but after this experience I realized it made the reforming easier with better results. I bought an Annealease and used it to anneal 30-30 cases and it works well but I ended up buying a Bench Source machine which suits me better. Now I anneal my rifle brass on a regular basis and include it in my case prep routine. Annealease is less expensive than the Bench Source but the results are the similar. I plan to sell the Annealease at some point.
So as long as 45-70 cases are available I would still consider an 1886 in .33 but I guess I would need to learn more about the caliber.
Rob
It shoots a 200gr bullet. Very modern for it’s day. I’m sure it would be an excellent flat shooting deer rifle today.
When I make 38 56, I use 45 70 and run it through a 40 65 die first, then through a 38 56, then trim. I have never had to aneal. If I were going to make 33wcf I’d just continue on from my 38 56 for.ing to 33wcf.
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