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January 7, 2017
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I took a gamble that I hope doesn’t come back to bite me but if it does, I guess it’s just part of my education. I noticed an 1890 2nd variation on an auction site that stated a manufacture date of 1908. After asking them to confirm there wasn’t a digit missing from their description, I referenced the WACA resource page and Red Book to determine it was actually a case colored frame antique. So I pulled a CFM SN# search; SN 31289, (22) WRF, Take down, applied 5 NOV 1894/ Received in warehouse on January 25, 1895/ Shipped from warehouse on March 18, 1895, Order number 9174.
Pictures were horrible but with all this ‘social distancing’ crap going on, I’ve saved cash by not blowing it while out and about. So, I figured what the heck..High bid $700 and won ($826 fees and ship). I contacted the auction house and provided a copy of the CFM paper to show them it was an antique and asked to have the rifle shipped directly to me. I fully expected them to balk and I would be out another $35 to my LGS for transfer- but they apologized for their mistake (my advantage anyway) and will send it out Monday!
As I said pictures were horrible, even after I did my best to enhance, so better pics will follow next week sometime. I sure hope someone didn’t try to re-blue a cc frame. That’s my only reservation. Here are some edited photos:
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
July 9, 2011
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Agreed the pictures are horrible. The pics from some online auction sites usually are and it takes a leap of faith to bid. But I think you’re OK on the finish. Although they’ve turned silvery, the remains of the case hardening/colors are still there on the front of the receiver with the rest totally worn off and turned patina. I think any blue tint in the pictures is camera flash.
September 28, 2016
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I agree with Rusty, it’s original finish.
Sleep easy…..
Erin
January 7, 2017
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I agree about the flash presenting the blue coloring- no expectations of much color. If you think those pictures are bad, below are the originals:
I tried enhancing but the end result was not much better…
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
March 31, 2009
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If you took the pictures with your phone can you mail yourself the original not compressed file? My I phone allows me to send different file sizes. If so select the largest file to send. With a larger file, 600KB or larger we can get a better look.
All I know is that the gun is collectable being antique, WRF and the rear sight and magazine tube are correct for an earlier gun.
January 7, 2017
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Those were the auction site’s photos. I’ll have to wait until later this week before I see what I actually purchased….
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
January 7, 2017
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Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. I was so glad the auction house just can’t take pictures. I took the gamble and appears I did OK. The bore is dark but the rifling is strong. I pulled a snake through the bore and put 5 rounds down range- no issues; strong, tight action. The sights don’t appear to have ever been tapped on and there are faint traces of color on the receiver. The Barrel is plum and brown mostly but that’s OK. I think its at least a 30% gun, maybe a bit better. Action was clean.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
WACA #10293
May 26, 2018
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I have a feeling that if you plugged the breech end, filled the tube up with something like Kroil, and let it soak for a week and brush it out that a couple of cycles of that could show a really nicely improved bore.
Nice rifle, congratulations.
March 31, 2009
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I agree with Jeff soak it and scrub it a few times. I love shooting the 1890’s. I have 2 left and both are WRF’s.
Chuck said
I agree with Jeff soak it and scrub it a few times. I love shooting the 1890’s. I have 2 left and both are WRF’s.
I love my Model 90 as well. Mine is in 22LR which is a real treat.
May 24, 2012
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I plug the barrel and use Kroil, too, however, I place the rifle muzzle down in a container should the seal leak. The last time I did this with an 1890, it took about two to three weeks along with repeated scrubbing with a bore brush as well.
James
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