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model 1894 25-35 WCF
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steve004
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June 8, 2022 - 10:59 pm
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twobit said
Hello all,

You 25-35 hounds might want to take a look at this one!  https://www.gunbroker.com/item/935595600

Michael

  

Very nice Cool

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bStrongTO
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April 22, 2026 - 8:24 pm
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I know this thread is older, but it’s a great title.

Unfortunately the lack of experience may have contributed to this disaster. When trying to confirm any markings on who or where the refurbishment, based on notes past down done in 1970, a little splitting of the wood.

SN shows 1911, I’m waiting for the letters.

I’m hoping to get this done by Turnbull case coloring. Any ideas? The blueing and finish on the wood is a little wrong dates?

Luckily we have a few other models, but in 1894 1 94’ 25-35 (1911)1 30 (1901). 

IMG_1310.jpegIMG_1312.jpegIMG_1341.jpegIMG_1342.jpeg

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bStrongTO
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April 22, 2026 - 8:33 pm
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bStrongTO said
I know this thread is older, but it’s a great title.
Unfortunately the lack of experience may have contributed to this disaster. When trying to confirm any markings on who or where the refurbishment, based on notes past down done in 1970, a little splitting of the wood.
SN shows 1911, I’m waiting for the letters.
I’m hoping to get this done by Turnbull case coloring. Any ideas? The blueing and finish on the wood is a little wrong dates?
Luckily we have a few other models, but in 1894 1 94’ 25-35 (1911)1 30 (1901). 

  

As you can see this one stands out and seems like it needs a little change?

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Bert H.
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April 23, 2026 - 4:40 am
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bStrongTO said

bStrongTO said
I know this thread is older, but it’s a great title.
Unfortunately the lack of experience may have contributed to this disaster. When trying to confirm any markings on who or where the refurbishment, based on notes past down done in 1970, a little splitting of the wood.
SN shows 1911, I’m waiting for the letters.
I’m hoping to get this done by Turnbull case coloring. Any ideas? The blueing and finish on the wood is a little wrong dates?
Luckily we have a few other models, but in 1894 1 94’ 25-35 (1911)1 30 (1901). 
  

As you can see this one stands out and seems like it needs a little change?
  

The damage that was done to it when it was non-professionally refinished is too extensive to recover from.  The cost to have it properly restored will be approximately 3X what the gun would be worth.  Case color finishing it would only make worse as it is not the correct finish type for a 1911 production Model 1894.  Winchester ceased case color finishing in August of the year 1901.  All receiver frames were machine blued, and the barrels and magazine tubes were rust blued.

Bert

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Zebulon
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April 23, 2026 - 1:28 pm
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As Bert says, the damage is such that it cannot be undone at any reasonable cost. 

If the gun has no sentimental value – an inheritance,  for example,  I would not throw good money after bad. There is a market for shiny old Winchesters and cashing out of it makes the most sense, to me anyway.

If it IS an inheritance and the bore and mechanicals are good enough to hunt with, there are some things you could do yourself or might have done at modest cost to make the gun less painful.to the eye, although It will never be collectible:

With the rifle disassembled, taking care not to round any edges, knock the gloss off the wood with 0000 steel wool. Don’t remove any wood, just flatten the top layer of finish. If 4-0 isn’t enough, drop back to 000 or 00 but use a very light touch. With care, the finish can be made to approximate oil. It would help if you have seen the various Winchesters on display at Cody. 

The other step is more drastic and that is to age the steel, which requires flattening the existing blue and removing it realistically in places – sharp edges and at the carry point. This is at best fooling the eye because the real problem was overpolishing the bare steel. But it can create an imperfect illusion of an older finish. 

None of the foregoing will fool a knowledgeable collector but it would make the gun more appealing in appearance. More to a knowledgeable person’s taste, I expect including you. 

I can say these things with a clear conscience because I’ve been down this road myself. Like the man trying to carry his tomcat home by its tail, I learned some lessons that will never grow dim or doubtful. 

- Bill 

 

WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist

"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.

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Anthony
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April 23, 2026 - 1:43 pm
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I am in full agreement with Bert, and Bill, (Zebulon). 

I would not put any $$$ into this, as they stated. Some wood glue, applied carefully, can repair the crack, and like was said you can tone down the look of the non professional job that was done to this piece to make it at least look presentable, and not trying to hide anything, or fool anyone. I’m pretty sure on the left top of the receiver, some pitting, under the distasteful re blue finish, is evident on the receiver. Zebulon is spot on with his recommendation, on how to save you’re pocketbook from chasing this one down that infamous rabbit hole that will never please you. Bert’s 3 times the cost is spot on. Spend the saved $$ on a real masterpiece, and just keep going as a lesson learned! IMHO! Smile

 

Anthony

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bStrongTO
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May 13, 2026 - 5:59 pm
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Thanks for the ideas and advice. This has been passed down and was in the back of the safe for a reason 🤣. I did get the letter and nothing special just shipped 1911. The notes past down to us was he had new stock and re blued by Packmayr in 1970, for some reason. 
A discussion I had from another forum was multiple other guns we have is stocks from Packmayr and was told no way did they sell stocks or gunsmithing back in late 60s-70s. They only sell pads. So since I thought this was an easy one to take apart and see if any markings that’s how the stock split when trying to put back on. My experience level is a 2 on taking guns apart.

The finish is just wrong for this gun, It look likes it’s brand new not a classic. So I’m thinking I can’t do much more damage experimenting on this 1894? Thinking 0000 and then a little oil on the wood? And Scotch Bright on receiver, vinegar on the screws? Just searching around internet how to remove bluing.

Thanks

Brian

IMG_1311-3.jpeg

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Zebulon
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May 13, 2026 - 6:26 pm
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Brian, it isn’t necessary to put oil on the wood, which is already sealed by the prior finish. All you need to do is flatten the reflective top molecules of the existing finish, reducing it’s shine to a satin refectivity. You are not going to cut through the existing finish to the wood. 

An “oil finish” is not made of raw linseed oil but rather “boiled linseed oil” which really means oil with chemical drying agents added so the finish will harden. It is really an “oil/varnish” finish. You are not going to create such a thing because the finish already on the wood will be just fine once you deal with it properly. 

ScotchBrite will remove bluing but don’t use one that is too coarse or you’ll scratch the steel. You might want to add a drop of lubricant to the steel while working on the blue. 

Go slow and first find an image on this forum or Cody and keep it in view while you work. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with your result. I’d leave off the vinegar. Don’t remove any steel from the screws or distort the slots. 

- Bill 

 

WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist

"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.

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bStrongTO
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May 14, 2026 - 1:43 am
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Thanks again for the recommendations

Like father like son! I may have made this 94’ again so distasteful, but I tried to change the non professionals in 1970 that may have saved this 1911 from any real rust? To me it’s super clean zero rust, a few pits and need to finish the stock, but unfortunately I know very little about nickel steel but I tried a few things, and at the end of the day the bluing had to come off. The question is what’s the next step other than keep it oiled and shoot the crap out of it for the first time in @ 60years and save it for the grandkids to make a buck or 2? I keeled the butt plate for the memory 🤣IMG_1377.jpegIMG_1372.jpegIMG_1374.jpegIMG_1370.jpegIMG_1375.jpegIMG_1368.jpegIMG_1373.jpeg

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Zebulon
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May 14, 2026 - 9:41 am
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Others may disagree but you have a choice. You can leave it bare and keep oxidation limited by wiping it down with one of the newer molecular bonding compounds like BreakFree CLP;

Or you can use one of the better cold blues like Brownell’s Oxpho. The interesting thing about Oxpho is it actually works better when you don’t degrease the steel. The result is a soft, grayish blue that some like and some don’t. 

There are other coatings but I don’t think they’re suitable for a Winchester lever action carbine. 

- Bill 

 

WACA # 65205; life member, NRA; member, TGCA; member, TSRA; amateur preservationist

"I have seen wicked men and fools, a great many of both, and I believe they both get paid in the end, but the fools first." -- David Balfour, narrator and protagonist of the novel, Kidnapped, by Robert Louis Stevenson.

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