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September 22, 2011
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Or, perhaps, how far should it protrude deep to the bolt at the other side?
Is this correct or in need of tightening or loosening?
November 5, 2014
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Hi Ian-
Your pics look about typical in my experience… Because there was variability in the wood inletting, the screws were individually ground to the right length, such that the top of the screw was about flush with the bottom surface of the striker raceway. Just measuring take-off screws, they vary in length by +/- as much as 0.05″ or so..
So many of these guns have had screws replaced (due to replacement of previously buggered ones), that it’s hard to tell what’s “original” or not. As long as it doesn’t stick up so much as to prevent the bolt from opening I guess I don’t pay much attention. As iskra used to say, these parts are “fungible”… On a pre-war gun I’d expect the original screw to be about flush. On a post-war gun I wouldn’t question any screw length that doesn’t bind the bolt…
For SHOOTING the general sense is that the front (floor plate) screw and the rear trigger guard screw should be “tight”, while the front guard screw and barrel bedding screw should be “snug”… Some rifles like the barrel screw tight and others like it removed altogether…
Best,
Lou
WACA 9519; Studying Pre-64 Model 70 Winchesters
September 22, 2011
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Louis Luttrell said
Hi Ian-
Your pics look about typical in my experience… Because there was variability in the wood inletting, the screws were individually ground to the right length, such that the top of the screw was about flush with the bottom surface of the striker raceway. Just measuring take-off screws, they vary in length by +/- as much as 0.05″ or so..
So many of these guns have had screws replaced (due to replacement of previously buggered ones), that it’s hard to tell what’s “original” or not. As long as it doesn’t stick up so much as to prevent the bolt from opening I guess I don’t pay much attention. As iskra used to say, these parts are “fungible”… On a pre-war gun I’d expect the original screw to be about flush. On a post-war gun I wouldn’t question any screw length that doesn’t bind the bolt…
Best,
Lou
Okay, thank you.
I didn’t check the depth before I disassembled the rifle this evening and I was afraid to tighten it too much and perhaps crack the stock during firing as it’s in .375 Holland & Holland Magnum.
The internet says 15 lbs of torque is appropriate. I have a torque wrench. How does one determine torque using a screwdriver?
August 27, 2014
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Torque specs for a gun are measured in ‘in. lbs’
Winchester never published/recommended any torque numbers and nothing was torqued on guns at the factory
That said I’ve never torqued anything on a gun
“If you can’t convince them, confuse them”
President Harry S. Truman
November 5, 2014
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Hi Ian-
You probably have the published version, but if not here are the two pages from A.A. Arnold’s booklet on M70 Takedown and Assembly relating to putting the action into the stock. This was a factory produced booklet, so presumably reflects Winchester guidance (or lack thereof) regarding assembly. These are the original drawings from the McCracken Library (where this can be downloaded), not the cleaned up printed version.
Obviously, they did not specify torque… There’s all kind of stuff on the Internet, written various people (“experts”) and IIRC their recommendations range from 15 ft-lb to 40 ft-lb. Some are using synthetic stocks (that can’t be cracked), some wood. No consistency…
I’m kind of like Tedk… If I’m going to shoot the gun I make the front/rear screws “tight” (but not “farmer tight”) and the middle (front guard) screw “snug”, without using a digital torque driver. Haven’t had one crack yet (including 375 Magnum), knock on wood!!! 
Lou
WACA 9519; Studying Pre-64 Model 70 Winchesters
August 8, 2024
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Make sure the stock screws are tight! You will have a cracked stock if they are not tight. This occurs mostly with rifles with heavier recoil like a .375 H&H Magnum. Louis correctly described how the Pre 64 Model 70 stock screws should be fitted.
September 22, 2011
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Louis Luttrell said
Hi Ian-
You probably have the published version, but if not here are the two pages from A.A. Arnold’s booklet on M70 Takedown and Assembly relating to putting the action into the stock. This was a factory produced booklet, so presumably reflects Winchester guidance (or lack thereof) regarding assembly. These are the original drawings from the McCracken Library (where this can be downloaded), not the cleaned up printed version.Obviously, they did not specify torque… There’s all kind of stuff on the Internet, written various people (“experts”) and IIRC their recommendations range from 15 ft-lb to 40 ft-lb. Some are using synthetic stocks (that can’t be cracked), some wood. No consistency…
I’m kind of like Tedk… If I’m going to shoot the gun I make the front/rear screws “tight” (but not “farmer tight”) and the middle (front guard) screw “snug”, without using a digital torque driver. Haven’t had one crack yet (including 375 Magnum), knock on wood!!!
Lou
Thank you, I tightened to tight but not farmer tight. I would think that would work best, anyways.
September 22, 2011
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Bo Rich said
Make sure the stock screws are tight! You will have a cracked stock if they are not tight. This occurs mostly with rifles with heavier recoil like a .375 H&H Magnum. Louis correctly described how the Pre 64 Model 70 stock screws should be fitted.
Thank you, yes, I agree, loose would be more likely to lead to cracking.
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