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Hello,
I’m new to collecting. Yesterday, I inherited my late grandfather’s rifle collection. I have a Winchester model 54 .30-06 with a scope according to the serial number 1926, and a Winchester model 52 .22 1928.
They have been in the basement for years and haven’t been shot for around 25-30. They are currently covered in mold, mildew, and are dirty from siting. I’m looking to clean them up and make them look nice again without ruining the finish on them.
My plan is to display them in the family room or put them in cases and preserve them to be able to be passed down to my kids. Any advice on what to use to restore the beauty in these antiques without ruining them?
Thank you in advance.
Hello and welcome! Nice to have had these handed down to you….I’d watch a YouTube video or consult with someone to separate the barreled actions/metal from the wood so you can clean them up thoroughly. Stuff will hide under forends, etc.
For stocks you can use a mild detergent or something like ballistol and 0000 steel wool or even a plain ol rag to wipe them clean. Let them dry and treat them with a wood conditioner or wax. For the metal parts and blued finishes use a lubricating oil of your choice and 0000 steel or bronze wool to “clean” away any light rust and such, just don’t go wild…let the oil/wool do the work with a light touch.
You can’t post photos as a guest but you can post them on a host site like google photos and link them here. We’d love to see them. You will get lots of great advice here, and likely some different from I posted as well.
I realize that we all have preferred cleaning methods, but IMHO using steel wool as a first step is a bit harsh.
After separating the wood from the metal, I would start with Hoppe’s No. 9, a soft clean cotton rag, and a fairly stiff nylon brush on the metal surfaces. Cotton t-shirts work well for this. Don’t use Hoppe’s on a stainless steel vintage Winchester barrel……. if either rifle happens to have one.
As suggested in the previous post, a light but gentle detergent solution wipe-down with a soft rag can work on wood surfaces, but I prefer to use Renaissance wax. Sounds a bit strange, maybe, but it works quite effectively and gently. Make sure that you use a different rag than the metal cleaning rag. Again, a clean cotton t-shirt works well.
I think this method will get you to a good starting point for a closer examination of your rifles. I’ve attached a product information link for Renaissance wax. It’s available through Amazon as well as other online retailers.
Be very gentle at first and get the easy stuff off. Later if you find light rusting use a lot of oil and 0000 steel wool with very light pressure. Be very careful to not over clean anything. Once clean put a light coat of oil on the metal surfaces. Depending upon the condition of the wood you may have to apply some furniture oil or boiled linseed oil and let it soak in. Do this until the wood quits showing dry spots. Always wipe off the excess oil. Renaissance Wax is the best wax out there but some household furniture wax can work too. You don’t want to use any wax that leaves a white residue.
Online
Darin,
That looks a little course for my liking! I like Chuck’s suggestion, with the, a lot of oil and, OOOO Steel Wool, or I’ve even used a softer, OOOO Brass Wool, that’s getting harder to find, these days.
Depends what you’re doing, but I wouldn’t use that on a collectable firearm!
Anthony
Anthony,
With lots of oil and a GENTLE touch, the Big 45 pads are quite effective. I’ve used them many times on the metal parts of collectable firearms, but only if the method I described previously leaves tough grime behind. They also work very well for removing surface rust. The key, again, is to use lots of oil and tread lightly….. but I’m sure the same is true for brass / steel wool.
Tom
I have removed small rust spots on very nice bluing with surprising results using lots of oil and even more common sense.
Darrin
November 7, 2015
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I’m a big fan of nylon brushes, worst case they take all the loose stuff off so I can see what I’m dealing with. Best case they clean everything up and all I need is a good oil like CLP or maybe a coat of Ren Wax.
I’m a bit concerned about what you said about mold and mildew, Bigdaddy. That indicates moisture and I’m concerned about the wood as much as the metal. Will be interested in what you find after removing all the surface debris.
Mike
Mike,
I can agree with you on that, also, as the nylon brushes are gentle on the gun, and get into the crevices as needed, kinda shooting the loose and even not so loose particles, if any, out of the tighter places.
I guess, all in all, it depends on the piece, and how bad it is and what’s really needed, as far as cleaning, as there’s different stages of this, all the way up to, just short of a refinish.
As far as mold and moisture in the wood and the visible mold on the stock, that’s another story, in itself. I acquired an older small collection, years ago, and several pieces we’re left unattended in a damp basement, and I completely disassembled every piece, and the wood was placed in large plastic bins, filled with an oil dry, crushed clay substance that mechanics use to absorb the spilled oil on shop floors, and it not only removed the mold and moisture from the wood stock, it took a lot of moisture out of the inside of the wood itself. Making sure not to overdue it, as the work shop has a humidity controlled environment, as to not dry out the wood to fast, or more than is needed, to cause unwanted splits and cracks. From there I was able to clean up all the wood, and oil it down properly, and even sealing the hidden areas underneath, where moisture can be absorbed, without refinishing anything.
My two cents worth.
Anthony
Thank you everyone for the amazing information and recommendations on the correct way to clean and preserve these, without destroying the true value of them.
I will look into starting a cloud folder, so I can post some pictures.
Regarding photos. Take pictures now so you can refer back to your starting point. Then, as your cleaning progresses you have a referance to see your results. Just a thought. 
RDB
Bigdaddy, I believe the boys here are giving you some good advice, but I’m going to add my two cents and that is the tools that may help you. Their recommendation on the Renaissance Wax is spot on. On the steel 0000 wool pad, I prefer Copper or Bronze, but yes plenty of oil. Chore Boy is a copper pad that can be picked up at a hardware store. If the bore is rusted badly, I’m not sure what to tell you on that, but if it’s only dirty or fouled then I’ve had good luck with the Bore Tech products. When all done and the gun needs a “light” wipe down with oil before putting it away I recommend EEZOX, and that includes inside the bore as well. A nylon toothbrush is your friend along with a dental pick. The pick works great in areas like in the extractor notch and any other crack or crevice. Good luck. RRM
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