Also it is worth mentioning that Idaho voted yesterday for the 1873 Winchester to be our Idaho State Gun!  

44

Bert H. said

IndianCent said

Bert H. said
I stopped attending the WAC shows at least 15-years ago... they got way too political for my taste.
Bert
  

 I stopped in 2002 after I took over the range. 
  

What range?
  

The Marksman in Puyallup, took it over in 2001 and sold it to two of my long term employees in 2019.

426crown said
https://dailycaller.com/2026/11/04/idaho-voters-pick-gun-that-won-the-west-in-referendum-panned-by-local-experts/
 
enjoy..Bill
  

Yeah,

My wife voted for the 1873 Winchester and I voted for the Colt SAA.......SHE won! 

Other states are trying to decide which guns to ban..........Idahoan's are asked to pick the gun they like best!   Watta State, gotta love it!

enjoy..Bill

I have a 1908-era 32 Special octagon barrel, full length magazine . . .

And also a 1915-era, 30 WCF round barrel, full length magazine.

Thanks for any insight!  —Jim

Bob

It looks to me like you're method works pretty well. Great picture of it and keeping the glare down.

Like Mark showed in his video, I also refreshed the Acid with a Q-Tip several times, and removing any excess to keep the mess down, while I was doing it. I definitely had an advantage having the letter, and the number stamped on the lower tang.

Tony

I have tried to use Magnaflux to pull a serial number and never was able to since there is no crack or fold to the metal but I only used the coil with the tang. I tried several different orientations of the tang in the coil with no indications each time but not between the plates.

I have used a single step acid to recover the number but you had to polish the area to a shine to get a contrast. I buy 5 bottles since they have a $25 minimum. 

Bob

Hightime said
I just had the stock off and didn’t see any more stampings. Is it common to have another location for the number? I wonder why yours did.
  

On the M-1885 Low Wall tang,(mfg. 1896), that can be removed and changed out, it was common to stamp the number on the lower tang, as a removable part.

You won't find the number on you're rifle anywhere else in all probability. 

Tony

I tried to show a few pics here as you can see the pitting in the steel and no finish or patina on the metal. Once I was confident that I had the proper location of the serial number, I traced over it with a pencil, to locate the numbers properly. Using the picture as a reference, then using the silicone caulk to create the dam, as Mark did. Making sure that the surface was very clean with alcohol, so the silicone would stick, and then making sure it was dry and cured, the next day was Muriatic Acid Day!The Winchester numbers are proprietary and in all likely hood impossible to find, as I was advised by Mark, as being very helpful, with this, along with another member. Instead of trying to locate a jeweler to engrave the numbers, I fashioned a small engraving tool, and hardened it, and started to engrave over the numbers, that I made sure with my pencil enhancement, and plenty of good light, I spent a week off and on, while snow was on the ground, at my bench, with the tang securely locked in! A small like jewelers hammer, as my late Father in Law was a gun smith, and taught me some tricks, and I have a lot of his tools, was a patient, yet very rewarding task.

Tony

Hightime said
Well not working on that today, but very close examination with magnification and good light. I saw a 3 for the first number and nothing more, but that should mean it was made in 1889, that’s helpful. 
Owen
  

As you're well aware of it's very important that you get you're serial number correct. I also had an advantage, as I was able to see just a little bit of a partial number or numbers, and in removing the wood stock, the correct serial number, was stamped on the inside of the lower tang. Giving me a huge advantage. It took a lot of guess work out of the equation! Plus having the Cody Letter from the previous owner didn't hurt!

Tony