Bo Rich said
Shooting a Monte Carlo stock Model 70 Pre 64 Model 70 with open sites is very challenging.  Not  advised, but the only way that I can see the sites are if my cheek is next to the butt plate!  Low comb stocks are better suited for iron sites, and a Monte Carlo stock is preferred when using a scope on the Pre 64 Model 70.
  

Good afternoon, Bo.  Agree the folding Lyman sight line is too low for the MC comb.  However, the Lyman 48 WJS bridge sets sufficiently higher over the receiver that a replacement, higher front sight is required. The resulting sight line is not much different than the optical center of a 1" scope in low rings. I think It also depends on the shape of the shooter's face -  how thin-cheeked or heavy joweled he is and how hard he cheeks the stock. 

Interestingly, for all its faults, that is one technical thing the 1964 Model 70 fixed. The stock was a high-combed Monte Carlo style for rapid scope picture acquisition. Both the front and rear iron sights were off-the-shelf Williams products featuring ramps that set high enough to meet the sight line required. They were screw-mounted, which was a good idea because big objective scopes required removal of the rear sight. I fitted my old 1966 243 with my son's Bausch & Lomb 6.5 - 20X varmint scope before giving him the rifle.  Front and rear irons went into a Baggie for him, plug screws substituted. An easy task.

Louis Luttrell said
Hi Zeb-
If I'd wanted to mess around inside somebody's head I would have become a psychiatrist.  Better hours and (usually) less blood...
One of the "exercises" I've done for "the book" has been to put together a Chapter wherein I COMPLETELY disassembled a "representative" M70 (an early Type I-1 G7004C) so that I could show and describe every part (including pins, springs, screws, etc.) that went into one.  Naturally, that involves disassembling the bolt sleeve.  So I know how the safety works, even if I'm not qualified to work on one... 
And before you ask... YES... I also put the rifle back together, all by myself, with no "professional help".  AND it still works!!! 
Cheers,
Lou
  

​"Thine own mouth condemneth thee, and not I: yea, thine own lips testify against thee."

Job 15:6

If I'd wanted to mess around inside somebody's head I would have become a psychiatrist.  Better hours and (usually) less blood...

One of the "exercises" I've done for "the book" has been to put together a Chapter wherein I COMPLETELY disassembled a "representative" M70 (an early Type I-1 G7004C) so that I could show and describe every part (including pins, springs, screws, etc.) that went into one.  Naturally, that involves disassembling the bolt sleeve.  So I know how the safety works, even if I'm not qualified to work on one... 

And before you ask... YES... I also put the rifle back together, all by myself, with no "professional help".  AND it still works!!! 

Cheers,

Lou

https://www.ebay.com/itm/394993431077?itmmeta=01KSQX4FTV5NBV00CVS5XTMJV5&hash=item5bf7717225:g:RkwAAOSwc21lT~8r

Like Zeb said, pre-64 M70 plug screws are 6-48.  If it matters, the ones the factory used are slightly domed on top and don't have a "stop".  See if this pic works...

Brownells sells 6-48 plug screws by the dozen.  They're either flat on top or have the "stop", but does that matter?  The ones with the stop look very much like the factory plugs when installed IMHO...

Best,

Lou

1. Ben Tolson is a member. 

2.  eBay is a common source of sights. 

3.  Early versions of the Lyman 48WJS require you cut a piece from the stock. Don't buy one of those. You want the later one that doesn't. 

wolfbait said
I need receiver plug screws. A guy on ebay has them, 8-40. Is that the correct size?
  

No, 6-48 is the correct  (factory) size unless somebody has drilled the receiver out for the larger size. 

Plug screws should have a very slight dome shaped head. 

Brownell's will have them.  Pachmayr sells a kit of common gunsmithing screws, although that is overkill. 

Louis Luttrell said
Hi Wolfbait-
There are a multitude of reasons why a pre-64 M70 safety will not move.  Dried gunk in the bolt sleeve preventing the safety detent plunger from depressing is one... So cleaning is the best/easiest first step...  Since it won't move off "FIRE" you can't put it into the middle position, which lets you turn the bolt sleeve/striker/spring assembly out of the bolt body easily.  That is annoying but not tragic...
If soaking it doesn't help...  Possibilities...
The detent plunger may be "scored" from someone trying to force it to move when it didn't want to.  What are supposed to be smooth polished angles now have "grooves" that catch edges...  It's an easy fix IF you know how to get the bolt sleeve assembly apart from the rest of the bolt.  A little polishing of the plunger (or replacing it) and "Voila!!!"
IF the safety has been replaced, the engagement between the rotating barrel of the safety and the corresponding semi-circular notch in the firing pin/striker may not be aligned.  Rotating the safety is supposed to cause the vertical cylindrical part to rotate into a corresponding notch in the striker, pulling the striker back slightly, and taking all pressure off the trigger/sear.  It's easier to "show" than to "explain"...  But for that to work, a sharp corner on the safety barrel has to pass another sharp corner of the striker.  Usually it's a matter of a couple "swipes" with a polishing stone to make it work (that's what the Assemblers did in the factory), but trying to "force" it might bend the safety lever (or even snap it off) if it doesn't want to go...  So I wouldn't "get Medieval" on it if soaking doesn't work...  Take it apart or give it to someone who can...
I guess this is one reason why Winchester's later Component Parts Catalogs required the gun to be sent back to the factory if you wanted work done on the safety...
Best,
Lou
  

Louis, It is a continuing amazement to me you didn't opt for a neurosurgical residency. (Although you do lack the arrogance seemingly required for that subspecialty.) If ever I had to suffer someone to root around in my brain, I would search for your obsessive neurosurgical clone. 

If you are going to shoot iron sights, do yourself a big favor and see our own sight guru Ben, seize him by the collar and demand a deal.on a clean Lyman 48WJS micrometer receiver sight. You may have to replace the front bead with a somewhat taller one but it will be worth the difference in performance.  And it will slightly enhance your rifle's value. 

The WJS is the Cadillac of sights for your Model 70 '06 rifle. (I usually suffer other opinions but not in this case.)

There are a multitude of reasons why a pre-64 M70 safety will not move.  Dried gunk in the bolt sleeve preventing the safety detent plunger from depressing is one... So cleaning is the best/easiest first step...  Since it won't move off "FIRE" you can't put it into the middle position, which lets you turn the bolt sleeve/striker/spring assembly out of the bolt body easily.  That is annoying but not tragic...

If soaking it doesn't help...  Possibilities...

The detent plunger may be "scored" from someone trying to force it to move when it didn't want to.  What are supposed to be smooth polished angles now have "grooves" that catch edges...  It's an easy fix IF you know how to get the bolt sleeve assembly apart from the rest of the bolt.  A little polishing of the plunger (or replacing it) and "Voila!!!"

IF the safety has been replaced, the engagement between the rotating barrel of the safety and the corresponding semi-circular notch in the firing pin/striker may not be aligned.  Rotating the safety is supposed to cause the vertical cylindrical part to rotate into a corresponding notch in the striker, pulling the striker back slightly, and taking all pressure off the trigger/sear.  It's easier to "show" than to "explain"...  But for that to work, a sharp corner on the safety barrel has to pass another sharp corner of the striker.  Usually it's a matter of a couple "swipes" with a polishing stone to make it work (that's what the Assemblers did in the factory), but trying to "force" it might bend the safety lever (or even snap it off) if it doesn't want to go...  So I wouldn't "get Medieval" on it if soaking doesn't work...  Take it apart or give it to someone who can...

I guess this is one reason why Winchester's later Component Parts Catalogs required the gun to be sent back to the factory if you wanted work done on the safety...

Best,

Lou