enjoy..Bill

I have a 1908-era 32 Special octagon barrel, full length magazine . . .

And also a 1915-era, 30 WCF round barrel, full length magazine.

Thanks for any insight!  —Jim

Bob

It looks to me like you're method works pretty well. Great picture of it and keeping the glare down.

Like Mark showed in his video, I also refreshed the Acid with a Q-Tip several times, and removing any excess to keep the mess down, while I was doing it. I definitely had an advantage having the letter, and the number stamped on the lower tang.

Tony

I have tried to use Magnaflux to pull a serial number and never was able to since there is no crack or fold to the metal but I only used the coil with the tang. I tried several different orientations of the tang in the coil with no indications each time but not between the plates.

I have used a single step acid to recover the number but you had to polish the area to a shine to get a contrast. I buy 5 bottles since they have a $25 minimum. 

Bob

Hightime said
I just had the stock off and didn’t see any more stampings. Is it common to have another location for the number? I wonder why yours did.
  

On the M-1885 Low Wall tang,(mfg. 1896), that can be removed and changed out, it was common to stamp the number on the lower tang, as a removable part.

You won't find the number on you're rifle anywhere else in all probability. 

Tony

I tried to show a few pics here as you can see the pitting in the steel and no finish or patina on the metal. Once I was confident that I had the proper location of the serial number, I traced over it with a pencil, to locate the numbers properly. Using the picture as a reference, then using the silicone caulk to create the dam, as Mark did. Making sure that the surface was very clean with alcohol, so the silicone would stick, and then making sure it was dry and cured, the next day was Muriatic Acid Day!The Winchester numbers are proprietary and in all likely hood impossible to find, as I was advised by Mark, as being very helpful, with this, along with another member. Instead of trying to locate a jeweler to engrave the numbers, I fashioned a small engraving tool, and hardened it, and started to engrave over the numbers, that I made sure with my pencil enhancement, and plenty of good light, I spent a week off and on, while snow was on the ground, at my bench, with the tang securely locked in! A small like jewelers hammer, as my late Father in Law was a gun smith, and taught me some tricks, and I have a lot of his tools, was a patient, yet very rewarding task.

Tony

Hightime said
Well not working on that today, but very close examination with magnification and good light. I saw a 3 for the first number and nothing more, but that should mean it was made in 1889, that’s helpful. 
Owen
  

As you're well aware of it's very important that you get you're serial number correct. I also had an advantage, as I was able to see just a little bit of a partial number or numbers, and in removing the wood stock, the correct serial number, was stamped on the inside of the lower tang. Giving me a huge advantage. It took a lot of guess work out of the equation! Plus having the Cody Letter from the previous owner didn't hurt!

Tony

Tony

Hightime said
I don’t have set trigger.
On the muriatic acid. Does it take any patina off? I might try that on another old cheaper gun.
Owen
  

I'm not sure, but would think so. The one I was working on was a pitted and cleaned up example with no finish or patina on it at all! Smart to try it on another example or something else first.

The "Regent", that Mark used has Muriatic Acid in it, as it's leading chemical, from my research and the MSDS information that I found on it.

Remember, it's not something that you want to inhale in, as it will burn you're throat and take you're breath away. Trust me I have a lot of experience with this from over fifty years ago and up to now. If a person wanted to wear a mask, I wouldn't stop them from doing it as Scouts and cleaning the concrete pool, (a summer project towards an Eagle Scout Merit badge), the instructor made it mandatory for all of us to be masked up! We we're all pretty grateful for that, and the fresh supply of a garden hose near by, as the splashing stung/burned on our skin, in the hot sun. Many consider the Muriatic, and Hydrochloric Acid as the same stuff, as it has similar properties, and both clean concrete, along with the steel quite well, without harming the paint, in most cases.

Tony

On the muriatic acid. Does it take any patina off? I might try that on another old cheaper gun.

Owen

SN 379 has been for sale in France a while ago.