My 63 has two holes neatly drilled in the left side of the receiver but they don't bother me a bit. . . . . .
  

My 63 has two holes also . . .I guess for a side-mount scope base.

My only complaint about the 63 is, ”it’s a BEAR to clean THOROUGHLY”!

I haven't seen a dorsal view of the inletting but I would go a little further than Hank and use Acraglass. 

I would take a narrow V-chisel and enlarge the tops of the interior crack line and across the face of the stock wrist. I would also cross-hatch the face to give bedding compound more purchase. 

Then, after applying release agent whereever there will be overruns, I would get as much Acraglass Gel bedding compound (peanut butter consistency) into the cracks and across the face of the wrist as possible, then reassemble the stock to the receiver and clamp the wrist with elastic bands and perhaps a wood clamp.

I should have mentioned, fill the tang screw holes with modeling clay first, to keep Acraglass out of the threads. Leave out the screws until the glass is cured.

I'd leave the nail heads in place but you could drill them out and fill the cavities with larger steel.pins coated in Acraglass. You could make them flush with the stock surface or make them short enough to conceal.with ebony or matching walnut plugs. 

As for refinishing the stock. All that is needed, if the topcoat has not failed, is to touch up the pin holes or plugs, then go over the whole stock lightly with 0000 wool to knock back the gloss to satin. 

The advantage to Acraglass is it is more gap filling and provides structural strength.

When possible, I prefer a repaired original stock to a new semi-inletted stock. It is a.hell of a lot less work. And it preserves the originality of the gun. There are limits, of course. 

drice0517 said
Came across this old 63 in a local sale recently and I'm in the process of fixing it up a little. Made in '38 or '39 by the serial number, depending on the source, but the barrel is stamped "38" underneath the front stock just in front of the receiver. It's been well used but it loads, shoots, and ejects nicely. The bore is good and will probably get better after some shooting and a good cleaning. The shells jump strongly into the chamber when the operating rod is cycled and the bolt recoil is strong. I shot both CCI SV and Federal AutoMatch and it handled both without a hitch. The firing pin is making nice indents on the shell rim. I didn't pay much attention to targeting but it grouped pretty good, hitting high and left a few inches at 30 yards. I'll make some sight adjustments later.
My initial plan is too take it apart, clean/inspect the parts, and get rid of the shiny finish somebody put on it. I'm not sure what they used but it's on there pretty good, it's not soft or sticky. I've repaired some wood cracks before, but I'd like some opinions on whether to replace the stock and butt plate or repair these. The stock was a little loose on the tang but I tightened the stock nut and fixed that. The concern I have with the cracked stock is that the stock doesn't fit well to the tang and receiver and the glued nails won't let me close the cracks any further using a clamp to make a better fit. I think if I could remove the nails I might be able to re-glue it, clamp it tight, maybe using wooden dowels to make it a stronger repair. Suggestions..?
I'm just wanting a decent looking shooter grade 63 and will probably just clean the metal up and use some cold blue. The butt plate (and fore cap) have some pitting that I'll try to clean up with files and some polishing if it's no too deep. If the stock can be repaired I'd like to try remove the nails and repair it before i look into buying a good used one, and maybe find and buy a smooth butt plate too. I'm looking for suggestions, opinions, and directions as to how to repair the cracks and what may be the better methods for refinishing the metal and wood. The metal looks better in the photos than it does up close (except for the butt plate). I've done some cold bluing in the past but it's been awhile and I know there may be some newer cold blue products and methods that might be better than what I've done in the past. Thanks for the help, and in case I need them, if anybody has a source for the stock and smooth butt plate I would appreciate the information.
 
 
g
  

Nice rifle, I definitely have a soft spot for the 63s. My pal-pal had one from the 50s. He had a 320 acre farm in south Missouri, wasn't a working farm but a mostly woodd retreat for hunting and lord knows I shot a few squirrels with that 63, it was scoped. Pal - pal always made squirrel with biscuits and gravy, amazing breakfast. I'm always looking for a good 63, it won't be pal-pals but thats ok.

Mike

My initial plan is too take it apart, clean/inspect the parts, and get rid of the shiny finish somebody put on it. I'm not sure what they used but it's on there pretty good, it's not soft or sticky. I've repaired some wood cracks before, but I'd like some opinions on whether to replace the stock and butt plate or repair these. The stock was a little loose on the tang but I tightened the stock nut and fixed that. The concern I have with the cracked stock is that the stock doesn't fit well to the tang and receiver and the glued nails won't let me close the cracks any further using a clamp to make a better fit. I think if I could remove the nails I might be able to re-glue it, clamp it tight, maybe using wooden dowels to make it a stronger repair. Suggestions..?

I'm just wanting a decent looking shooter grade 63 and will probably just clean the metal up and use some cold blue. The butt plate (and fore cap) have some pitting that I'll try to clean up with files and some polishing if it's no too deep. If the stock can be repaired I'd like to try remove the nails and repair it before i look into buying a good used one, and maybe find and buy a smooth butt plate too. I'm looking for suggestions, opinions, and directions as to how to repair the cracks and what may be the better methods for refinishing the metal and wood. The metal looks better in the photos than it does up close (except for the butt plate). I've done some cold bluing in the past but it's been awhile and I know there may be some newer cold blue products and methods that might be better than what I've done in the past. Thanks for the help, and in case I need them, if anybody has a source for the stock and smooth butt plate I would appreciate the information.

g

Teemdoc said

Bert: can you show me what the rear site should look like? Apparently the one on this gun is not correct.  

This is what the original rear sight looked like;

Bert

Bert H. said

Teemdoc said

Bert H. said
The model is a "Winchster Single Shot" (a.k.a. Model 1885).  Th caliber "25 W.C.F." is the original designation for the 25-20 Single Shot (S.S.) cartridge.  The barrel should be 28-inches long, and it appears to be the heavier No. 2 contour.  As mentioned, th forend stock is not factory original, and I highly suspect the same is true for th butt stock. The serial number located on the end of the lower tang will tell me precisely when the rifle was manufactured, and what its orginal configuration was.
Bert
  

its faint,but I see it now..says Patient Oct7th 79, and serial is 51300
  

OK, Single Shot rifle s/n 51300 was indeed a 25-20 Single Shot rifle with a 28-inch No. 2 octagon barrel.  It was manufactured in November of 1891, and it had standard stocks on it (crescent butt plate, and ebony tipped forend stock).

 
Bert
  

Bert: can you show me what the rear site should look like? Apparently the one on this gun is not correct.

Zebulon said
That looks like a first series Browning Challenger. I had one in the late Sixties and it was remarkably accurate -- better than the Woodsman 6"  I'd earlier owned.  I found a mint 4" Challenger in the Nineties and gave it to my son.  It came with a matching Browning marked leather holster, the only one I've ever seen. 
  

Good eye, that little browning is 1963. I believe it's a second year gun. I was raised shooting it. My dad bought it new while in the army stationed ft.Lewis Washington. I can remember the first couple time I squirrel hunted with it my dad said I didn't have a chance. By the third time out the squirrels didn't have a chance. That 22 is hands down deadly accurate. My dad gifted it too me about 20 years ago. He know how much I loved it, and always will. Its not going anywhere.

Teemdoc said

Thank you Bert. I assume the "custom" forend and stock hurt its value?
  

Yes it does negatively affect the collector value of the rifle.  Due to the cartridge it is chambered for, it also has minimal value as a "shooter" grade rifle.  The only people who might be interested in it are the small number of us that can reload the 25-20 S.S. cartridge.

Bert

Bert H. said

Teemdoc said

Bert H. said
The model is a "Winchster Single Shot" (a.k.a. Model 1885).  Th caliber "25 W.C.F." is the original designation for the 25-20 Single Shot (S.S.) cartridge.  The barrel should be 28-inches long, and it appears to be the heavier No. 2 contour.  As mentioned, th forend stock is not factory original, and I highly suspect the same is true for th butt stock. The serial number located on the end of the lower tang will tell me precisely when the rifle was manufactured, and what its orginal configuration was.
Bert
  

its faint,but I see it now..says Patient Oct7th 79, and serial is 51300
  

OK, Single Shot rifle s/n 51300 was indeed a 25-20 Single Shot rifle with a 28-inch No. 2 octagon barrel.  It was manufactured in November of 1891, and it had standard stocks on it (crescent butt plate, and ebony tipped forend stock).

 
Bert
  

Thank you Bert. I assume the "custom" forend and stock hurt its value?

Teemdoc said

Bert H. said
The model is a "Winchster Single Shot" (a.k.a. Model 1885).  Th caliber "25 W.C.F." is the original designation for the 25-20 Single Shot (S.S.) cartridge.  The barrel should be 28-inches long, and it appears to be the heavier No. 2 contour.  As mentioned, th forend stock is not factory original, and I highly suspect the same is true for th butt stock. The serial number located on the end of the lower tang will tell me precisely when the rifle was manufactured, and what its orginal configuration was.
Bert
  

its faint,but I see it now..says Patient Oct7th 79, and serial is 51300
  

OK, Single Shot rifle s/n 51300 was indeed a 25-20 Single Shot rifle with a 28-inch No. 2 octagon barrel.  It was manufactured in November of 1891, and it had standard stocks on it (crescent butt plate, and ebony tipped forend stock).

Bert

Bert H. said
The model is a "Winchster Single Shot" (a.k.a. Model 1885).  Th caliber "25 W.C.F." is the original designation for the 25-20 Single Shot (S.S.) cartridge.  The barrel should be 28-inches long, and it appears to be the heavier No. 2 contour.  As mentioned, th forend stock is not factory original, and I highly suspect the same is true for th butt stock. The serial number located on the end of the lower tang will tell me precisely when the rifle was manufactured, and what its orginal configuration was.
Bert
  

its faint, but I see it now... says Patient Oct 7th 79, and serial is 51300