I an relate so much here, as we could swap names in you're storied history, and many things would surly match. I guess it's just from a time period of how we we're raised and have come up. I can surely relate.

Cheers to you, Our Collecting Friend!

Mike,

You sure are correct in trying to support the Brick and Mortar stores, as we all know and see it's gotten harder to do that. So many great past memories flashing through my mind here this early morning!

Tony

Mike

Interesting story Zeb, as I never heard that about the barrel making, and well known, enthusiast of his time! 

I also agree with you're "Canary in the coal mine", statement, as I've heard of them but never dealt with them, but would be interested in hearing how it all goes down, and the possibility of a successful transaction. 

Tony

I'm always pleased when somebody else volunteers to be the canary in the coal mine. 

I've not dealt with Bob's myself but will observe that, sometimes, the old cranky guys who are less than digital warriors - running their business on the last functioning Apple 2 - have the best stuff. 

I read the late, celebrated gunsmith and barrel maker Harry Pope did not have a phone in his shop nor did he answer the door. To speak with him, you threw a small rock up at his second story shop window, being careful not to break it, and yelling "Hey, Pope" at max volume. He would come to the window and scrutinize you. If he thought you were an actual or potential customer, he would tell you to come up. Otherwise, he would just close the window.

I have some questions about cartridge guides. So far I have seen at least three different cartridge designs from 1894 t0 1964. One design has a spring loaded plate on the left guide. The angled slot by the screw hole has straight sides. The third one has the angled slot with one straight side and one curved side. 

  I have looked and looked as to why this is so and to when these design changes occurred and got nowhere.  I have The Winchester book by Madis and nothing is in there. I have The models of 1894 and 1895 book by Pirkle and the drawing is vague. 

  Then there is a reference by some old gun parts websites that reference Early, before 1950 and late, after 1950 to 1964. Where did that come from? Is there a reference book that describes what part design goes where and to what year or serial number it belongs on?

Bottom line which cartridge guide should be in my Winchester model 1894 30-30 carbine S/N 329564 made in 1905, the one with both straight slots or the one with one straight wall and one curved wall?

Thank You so much,

Arizona Tony

Maverick said

Here is a nice purple label box.
  

Wow. A box of this caliber is my absolute dream.

Anthony said
Just more FYI!

Natural Pigment Vulnerability: In the late 1800s and early 1900s, vibrant red inks commonly relied on carminic acid derived from cochineal insects. These natural organic dyes are chemically unstable—often classified by artists as “fugitive”—and highly susceptible to ultraviolet (UV) light. [1, 2, 3]
The “Fading” Mechanism: When exposed to sunlight and atmospheric oxidation, the red/orange components of the dye break down and fade away first. Because cochineal and other early red pigments contained subtle bluish/magenta undertones, the loss of the dominant warm red hues leaves behind the cooler, bluish-purple remainder.

Tony
  

That means these labels have gotten darker because of UV light, right?

• Natural Pigment Vulnerability: In the late 1800s and early 1900s, vibrant red inks commonly relied on carminic acid derived from cochineal insects. These natural organic dyes are chemically unstable—often classified by artists as “fugitive”—and highly susceptible to ultraviolet (UV) light. [1, 2, 3]
• The “Fading” Mechanism: When exposed to sunlight and atmospheric oxidation, the red/orange components of the dye break down and fade away first. Because cochineal and other early red pigments contained subtle bluish/magenta undertones, the loss of the dominant warm red hues leaves behind the cooler, bluish-purple remainder.

Tony

Here is a nice purple label box.

In many cases, as long as the parts you have are correct, more fitting might be needed as far as polishing and stoning. Clean up the lube and check for bright wear and friction spots. The oil/grease is not a bad thing, but can give you a false sense of correct operation, in tight fittings.

As far as how they should be or operate, they should operate smoothly. Wear over a long time can loosen them up, but when released from the factory they should be smooth. You can't hurt it by fitting it better with the proper methods, such as you're doing.

Enjoy you're project.

Tony