218Bee said
Have an early 1894 rifle (26”) in 30-30 that shoots well, but the bore is dark, yet rifling is very strong & pronounced.  I knew it was dark when I got it.  Im no stranger to cleaning rifles, but this one has me a bit stumped.  I use older Hoppes (the good stuff) and after letting it sit a bit, I scrub it with a Dewey rod & wet bronze bristle 30 cal. bore brush.  A minute or two of that and then hit it with the dry patches.  Then repeat the whole process.   I must have went through 20 patches and they still come out dirty.  Had to knock off for the night but want to try my best to brighten the bore up, as the rifle is in great shape.  No experience cleaning an old filthy bore this dirty.  Is there something I’m missing, or do I keep blowing through patches and hope for the best?  Haven’t owned the rifle long, but shot a bunch of my downloaded ammo through it (2400 powder & 110 gr. M1 Carbine bullets, FMJ), and wanted to give it a good cleaning   Any help is appreciated.
 
Ps.  It’s a takedown, so maybe that will simplify things?
  

Take the barrel assembly off of the receiver frame, and then soak the bore with Kroil for at least 12-hours before attacking it again with a copper wire bore brush.  

Bert

Ps.  It’s a takedown, so maybe that will simplify things?

Jeremy P said
Damn, I need to start selling 3D printed parts! Sounds like a similar arrangement to the 1911 SL shotgun in terms of fibrous buffers and recoil absorption.
  

You are correct, T. C. Johnson designed the Model 1907 and 1911...started with the 1903 and the group also includes the 1905 and 1910. 

Mike

Jeremy P said
Very nice! I'm supposed to have mine this Friday. Are the buffer replacements available still or did you have to sub something in? I've never disassembled one of these but I bet it will happen soon!
  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/187739076589

Jeremy P said
Very nice! I'm supposed to have mine this Friday. Are the buffer replacements available still or did you have to sub something in? I've never disassembled one of these but I bet it will happen soon!
  

The original buffers were made of "Vulcanized" fibrous material and GPC sold out of them some time ago. However, substitutes are readily available on eBay,  made by 3-D printer from some kind of polymer. Adam can tell you where. 

Disassembling one to replace the buffer is a project best undertaken after watching several videos on YouTube. It is not technically complex but removing and replacing the long skinny return spring requires three hands and a prehensile tail. 

All of the action components except the trigger/safety assembly are situated in the forearm. The buffer is not located in the receiver, behind the bolt, as you would expect. The bolt is connected to a massive "extension" in the forearm that travels backward with the bolt and retards it's velocity. It is this extension that bottoms out on the buffer installed forward of the receiver. 

I believe this arrangement of parts was designed to avoid the many interlocking Browning patents. 

Mike