The U.S. Navy buys BreakFree CLP in 55-gal drums.  It is what we used to clean all of the weapons in our Small Arms lockers for decades.

I have known for a very long time that WD-40 is not a good gun care product, but there are a lot of people who still foolishly buy and use it for that purpose.  

My recipe for cleaning old guns (or modern guns that are real dirty) is quite simple...  Kroil and acetone.  For oiling (protecting), there are two products that my grandfather, father, and I have used fotr the past 90+ years... Marvel Mystery Oil and/or plain 3-in-1 machine oil.  I do use Old West Snake oil to wipe down my guns before putting them on the rack at gun shows, and because I have a lifetime supply of it, I probably will not buy any Ballistol for future use, but it is good to know that it is a good product.

Bert

That allegation contradicts everything else I've ever read. 

I use  Ballistol because it won't damage wood or wood finishes. 

A product I've used regularly on all unplated steels is BreakFree CLP. It seems to ease friction particularly well in automatic pistols. It isn't cheap but I've not heard anybody knock it. It definitely will get underneath and loosen nickel plating if it finds a chip or bare spot. 

Bo Rich said
Thank you Tony.  Very interesting.  Hope to see you in September at the OGCA/ WACA show.
  

Absolutely Bo, I will certainly Try!

TXGunNut said
Interesting. I dislike the unrelated video content and the teaser format but agree with the description of Ballistol. Never occurred to me that the mineral oil in gun oil is the same as the mineral oil sold in the pharmacy section. I think gun oil protects much longer than is represented in the video but maybe I've just been lucky.
 
Mike
  

Mike,

I also dislike the all the hoopla content in between the facts, that was being presented, and trying to sort out, the distractions.

A fellow member here on the WACA Forum put me wise to the Ballistol, a little while ago, and he's certainly spot on with that recommendation. The Mineral oil part threw me also.

Tony

Thanks for posting the video, very interesting.  

Al

Mike

All comments and insight is appreciated.

Tony

Otisman68 said
New barrel on a blued younger 86 action (1920s).  Action smooth but bullet gets hung up on insertion in the chamber.  After chambering dummy rounds multiple times brass starting to build up on the barrel chamber mouth on the bottom of the barrel, between the recessed bolt areas.  Would it be safe to stone that area down to allow feeding easier?  
  

First post a picture of the area in question on the gun and a pic of the bullets. 

I did have fun one year at an OGCA show when one was up for sale for a paltry $100,000 or so!  Once I convinced the owner I was not a buyer, he relaxed and took it out of the wood and glass case and he and I had a great time just talking and examining it.  So I CAN say I've handled one in detail.  Tim

martin rabeno said
No. It’s not a hypothetical question but a very complex one as many of you have answered.  My feelings are, if you are upfront and have or can squire the skills needed to restore a piece of history, why not? Art restorers do it every day. But it must be done right with all respect due to the item in your care.  Not to make it look new but let it once again look like it would have been for its  its apparent age and condition. At a certain point it’s not about the money but for respect for the object. How you do it and the cost is up to the individual. Some interesting examples of frauds and restorations are pictured in Lewis’s book. Everyone can make up their own moral decisions.
  

Great point Martin! While opinions on restoration vary, I think we all agree at a minimum disclosure is required. What is the name of the Lewis’s book you referenced? I would like to get it if I can find a copy. Thanks, Buck

Chuck said
I recently bought an 1873 Ser #201866 in 22 short.  It needed the correct forend screws, an original rear sight and the inner magazine assembly repaired or replaced.
I fixed the forend screws with original screws.  I will buy a period correct rear sight.
The inner magazine will have to get a new assembly.  This is by far the most rare and hardest part to get.  Call it what you may but it will be a lot better than it was. 
  

Now that is a worthy restoration! 

I fixed the forend screws with original screws.  I will buy a period correct rear sight.

The inner magazine will have to get a new assembly.  This is by far the most rare and hardest part to get.  Call it what you may but it will be a lot better than it was.