Some of the most effective automotive cleaners are capable and in fact designed to break down everything but metal, including firearm metal and wood finish. I've sold many pallets and even a few drums of it over my automotive career, it's wonderful stuff. I know no one here has a firearm with a synthetic stock but I've heard some can be destroyed by brake cleaner. On top of that many are highly flammable. I keep a case of brake cleaner in my tool shed but it won't be used on my guns!

Mike

My Ballistol label actually mentions that it is "mildly alkaline and neutralizes acids, while it dissolves traces of copper, lead,brass, zinc, tombar and black powder residues."

Further digging into the Hunter's Vault, I found a short riflesmith's section that mentioned an older gunsmith who used mineral oil and pure as pharmacy isopropyl alcohol, which are the main ingredients in Ballistol. BUT, there are some mild acids in Ballistol also, like oleic acid that help dissolve BP residue. I am curious as to the popular use of ammonia in many bore cleaners, which is alkaline if not strongly alkaline which neutralizes acids. Also cleans metal fouling if left in the bore and swabbed out.

Young's recommends an "aqueous solution" to neutralize salts and priming residue in the bore: it is made of 1 part 303 oil to 3 parts water. It is the same as the old muzzle loader's formula for black powder "moose milk" derived by mixing oil and water to a milky consistency. This alcohol and mineral oil either separately or in a careful mixture may just have real value. So possibly would be mineral oil, alcohol and a trace of ammonia. The idea being to fashion a reliable and economic  gun cleaner-bore cleaning preservative short of a chemistry set "accident".

Ridge

(We combat veterans want to survive long enough to enjoy more Memorial Days) Caveat Cleaning

450 Fuller said
Keep in mind that Kroil  and especially Kroil and acetone are penetrant oil/mixtures. As penetration agents, they are excellent.
I use rare British Rangoon oil and Youngs 303, along with Tetra oil and grease. The last two  leave a thin film of tough oil and Teflon.These last are only for wear areas in rifles. They also really protect barrel bores. Mineral oil in pure form works, but it must be pure with no additives like sodium chloride-salt. The old GI bore cleaner contained a bit of h20 water, as water dissolved the residue left by mercuric and other types of corrosive primers. Very prevalent in military and civilian priming compounds up to the 1920s and later used in WW II. There is also Stock Slick-by Totally Dependable Products in PA. Good stuff but hard to find for stock finishes and oil rubbed stocks  in Winchesters.
Will do further study on this "Hunters Vault" source as to good oils.   Smokeless rifles: Mineral oil and Isopropyl alcohol=first clean, then oil. Black powder needs Ballistol to dissolve BP residue;clean, oil and protect.
(As to the below post  options following this post: FIRST, do no harm.)
  

Ridge,  That explains the Ballistol.promo language about "acid residue." 

Is Ballistol just a solvent for BP residue or does it also have a high enough pH to neutralize acidic compounds? I ask because I wonder if it is also effective against acidic priming residue?

Bill

There was a couple that used to shoot SASS using black powder only. I forget what product they used to clean black powder fowling, but whatever it was worked great. The only catch was that it would stripe bluing off. All of their pistols and rifle were nickel plated was their solution to that problem.

Sincerely,

Maverick

I use rare British Rangoon oil and Youngs 303, along with Tetra oil and grease. The last two  leave a thin film of tough oil and Teflon.These last are only for wear areas in rifles. They also really protect barrel bores. Mineral oil in pure form works, but it must be pure with no additives like sodium chloride-salt. The old GI bore cleaner contained a bit of h20 water, as water dissolved the residue left by mercuric and other types of corrosive primers. Very prevalent in military and civilian priming compounds up to the 1920s and later used in WW II. There is also Stock Slick-by Totally Dependable Products in PA. Good stuff but hard to find for stock finishes and oil rubbed stocks  in Winchesters.

Will do further study on this "Hunters Vault" source as to good oils.   Smokeless rifles: Mineral oil and Isopropyl alcohol=first clean, then oil. Black powder needs Ballistol to dissolve BP residue;clean, oil and protect.

(As to the below post  options following this post: FIRST, do no harm.)

Jeremy P said

tionesta1 said
What do you guys think about Clenzoil Field and Range. I use it sometimes on both wood and metal of my guns.
  

I think ProjectFarm on YouTube tested that one and it did well IIRC. Never used it personally.
  

tionesta1 said
What do you guys think about Clenzoil Field and Range. I use it sometimes on both wood and metal of my guns.
  

Al,

I still have some and I use it occasionally on a gun I feel needs it a little. I actually like it, for it's intent!

Jeremy,

I have seen that awhile back, and agree, they liked it, for it's purpose. If I remember correctly, it's a petroleum based distillate, and mixed with a synthetic oil. I actually like the smell of it.

Tony

tionesta1 said
What do you guys think about Clenzoil Field and Range. I use it sometimes on both wood and metal of my guns.
  

I think ProjectFarm on YouTube tested that one and it did well IIRC. Never used it personally.

Mike

Mike

TR said
  It seems like every gun show I go to at least one guy or his guns stink. Is that Ballistal or bad hygiene? T/R
  

Cold blue also stinks to high heaven.

Of all the different gun cleaning and preserving products and the many different odors that emit, my favorite smell is the old original Hoppe's #9.  It brings back many fond memories of being a young fellow in my grandfather's gun room.

Bert

wdfc stock - Search

TXGunNut said

steve004 said
Great Thread - thanks for starting it Tony!
  

Agreed. I know almost all gasoline for a given area comes from the same terminal, the only difference is the additives. If most gun oils are based on mineral oil I have to wonder what benefits we can expect to derive from the additives and which ones are marketing tools. It's quite possible the mineral oil is a carrier for the additives that do what we expect a good gun oil to do. I'm not a chemical engineer but I drove by a Holiday Inn Express this week.
 
Mike
  

You're Welcome Steve,

As I'm just trying to add in as many positive ways that I can think of, as you do, and many others here, also do!

You cracked me up Mike as I read the end of you're post! Good One!

Tony