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                    <title>steff on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180346</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180346</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p><strong>Maverick said </strong></p>
<p>Here is a nice purple label box.<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Wow. A box of this caliber is my absolute dream.</p>
<p> </p>
<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p><strong>Anthony said </strong><br />
Just more FYI!</p>
<p>Natural Pigment Vulnerability: In the late 1800s and early 1900s, vibrant red inks commonly relied on carminic acid derived from cochineal insects. These natural organic dyes are chemically unstable—often classified by artists as “fugitive”—and highly susceptible to ultraviolet (UV) light. [1, 2, 3]<br />
The “Fading” Mechanism: When exposed to sunlight and atmospheric oxidation, the red/orange components of the dye break down and fade away first. Because cochineal and other early red pigments contained subtle bluish/magenta undertones, the loss of the dominant warm red hues leaves behind the cooler, bluish-purple remainder.</p>
<p>Tony<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>That means these labels have gotten darker because of UV light, right?</p>
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					                    <pubDate>Fri, 12 Jun 2026 18:17:01 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Anthony on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180317</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Just more FYI!</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Natural Pigment Vulnerability:</strong> In the late 1800s and early 1900s, vibrant red inks commonly relied on carminic acid derived from cochineal insects. These natural organic dyes are chemically unstable—often classified by artists as “fugitive”—and highly susceptible to ultraviolet (UV) light. [<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcPMFsafav8&#038;t=253" rel="noopener nofollow ugc" target="_blank">1</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Wm5C1RnK_k" rel="noopener nofollow ugc" target="_blank">2</a>, <a href="https://books.rsc.org/books/monograph/983/chapter/778070/Colour-A-Historical-Perspective" rel="noopener nofollow ugc" target="_blank">3</a>]</li>
<li><strong>The “Fading” Mechanism:</strong> When exposed to sunlight and atmospheric oxidation, the red/orange components of the dye break down and fade away first. Because cochineal and other early red pigments contained subtle bluish/magenta undertones, the loss of the dominant warm red hues leaves behind the cooler, bluish-purple remainder.</li>
</ul>
<p>Tony</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 23:07:45 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>tim tomlinson on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180293</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>If at all possible, I would directly contact some cartridge collector, such as Ray Giles, and ask if he would prefer the label to remain dark or if he would prefer it to be lightened if that is possible without damage to the lettering.  Just my thoughts as I am NOT really a cartridge collector.  Serious collectors may be like us rifle collectors and prefer them left alone.  Tim</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 04:30:36 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Maverick on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180292</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180292</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p><img data-upload="1" data-width="820" data-height="1537" title="380-Colt-Auto-95-Gr.-SP.jpg" alt="380-Colt-Auto-95-Gr.-SP.jpg" src="https://winchestercollector.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-image-uploads/maverick/2026/06/380-Colt-Auto-95-Gr.-SP.jpg" /></p>
<p>Here is a nice purple label box.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 00:49:23 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Zebulon on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180282</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Good point, Mav. </p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 16:30:34 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Anthony on Winchester 94 Canadian centennial lever gets stiff halfway through action</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/winchester-94-canadian-centennial-lever-gets-stiff-halfway-through-action/#p180264</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome Tsez,</p>
<p>In many cases, as long as the parts you have are correct, more fitting might be needed as far as polishing and stoning. Clean up the lube and check for bright wear and friction spots. The oil/grease is not a bad thing, but can give you a false sense of correct operation, in tight fittings.</p>
<p>As far as how they should be or operate, they should operate smoothly. Wear over a long time can loosen them up, but when released from the factory they should be smooth. You can't hurt it by fitting it better with the proper methods, such as you're doing.</p>
<p>Enjoy you're project.<img class="spSmiley" style="margin:0" title="Smile" alt="Smile" src="https://winchestercollector.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-smileys/sf-smile.gif" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Tony</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 10:55:40 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Tsez on Winchester 94 Canadian centennial lever gets stiff halfway through action</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/winchester-94-canadian-centennial-lever-gets-stiff-halfway-through-action/#p180261</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>I recently inherited this Winchester 94 as a case of a bunch of loose parts; it was missing the trigger assembly and the breech bolt assembly. I got these parts online and put it together and cleaned and lubed everything. The lever gets very stiff at this point when using the action. I have polished the hammer and the bottom of the bolt, that made it smooth, but the pressure of the action isn't even all the way through. I do not know if this is just how these are as I have never used a Winchester 94 before. Thanks</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://i.postimg.cc/X7PHfxGx/IMG-6765.jpg" width="1280" height="960" /></p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 03:00:38 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Maverick on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180260</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>The top box label may actually have been purple in color to start with and not red. I think one of Dan Shuey's books has such a label in it.</p>
<p>Sincerely,</p>
<p>Maverick</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 02:34:59 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>steff on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180259</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the advice. I'm going to get a UV lamp and try it out with an empty box first.</p>
<p>Here are two pictures of the box on the "dark side".</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img data-upload="1" data-width="800" data-height="437" title="20260606_131631.jpg" alt="20260606_131631.jpg" src="https://winchestercollector.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-image-uploads/steff/2026/06/20260606_131631.jpg" /><img data-upload="1" data-width="800" data-height="780" title="20260608_202749.jpg" alt="20260608_202749.jpg" src="https://winchestercollector.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-image-uploads/steff/2026/06/20260608_202749.jpg" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Stefan</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 02:01:27 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Zebulon on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180192</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>And if I recall correctly, the color red fades in response to UV radiation more rapidly than black, which is actually the absence of color. Red color reflects low energy, long wavelength visible light and absorbs all the high energy, short wavelength visible light -- which means the red ink takes a relatively severe beating compared to colors that reflect more short wavelength visible light. </p>
<p>While black absorbs all wavelengths of the visible spectrum,  the most common component of black ink is carbon black, which resists degradation because of its structure. </p>
<p>So, if you expose the dyed cardboard to UV radiation, the black lettering should become more visible as the red fades. </p>
<p>What UV radiation does to the underlying cardboard itself..... "<em>further affiant saith not."</em> </p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sat, 06 Jun 2026 18:30:07 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Bert H. on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180167</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p><strong>steff said </strong><br />
Have you actually done that already, and what kind of UV lamp did you use?<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>No I have not.  I just know that exposure to U.V. light will usually cause colors (ink) to fade.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2026 22:41:05 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>steff on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180165</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Have you actually done that already, and what kind of UV lamp did you use?</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2026 22:14:47 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Bert H. on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180161</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Exposure to U.V. light.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2026 21:25:40 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>steff on Extremely dark red labels on ammunition boxes</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/extremely-dark-red-labels-on-ammunition-boxes/#p180158</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Hello fellow collectors,</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a few boxes of Winchester ammunition from the 1910s whose red labels have darkened significantly. You can hardly read anything on them anymore. Does anyone know of a way to restore them and make them lighter in color?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Greetings from Germany</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Stefan</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2026 21:21:15 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>TXGunNut on Gun Oils</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/gun-oils/page-3/#p179785</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/gun-oils/page-3/#p179785</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Moose milk (Ballistol and water) is one of my go-to BP cleaners. It's one of the reasons I take issue with folks who won't shoot BP because cleanup is such a chore. Moose milk or Windex with vinegar is quicker than cleaning the same cartridge firearm with Hoppes after shooting with smokeless powder. With proper fit and lube a lead bullet will only leave lube and powder residue in a firearm's bore. Moose Milk or Windex with Vinegar facilitates a quick cleaning after a Holy Black range trip. With copper fouling it's a waiting game and I generally repeat the brushing and patching steps several times over a period of a day or two.</p>
<p>Some of the most effective automotive cleaners are capable and in fact designed to break down everything but metal, including firearm metal and wood finish. I've sold many pallets and even a few drums of it over my automotive career, it's wonderful stuff. I know no one here has a firearm with a synthetic stock but I've heard some can be destroyed by brake cleaner. On top of that many are highly flammable. I keep a case of brake cleaner in my tool shed but it won't be used on my guns!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Mike</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2026 22:25:48 +0000</pubDate>
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