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        <title>Winchester Collector - Forum: Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</title>
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                    <title>skierd on 1873 Rehab and Recondition</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/1873-rehab-and-recondition/page-3/#p185345</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/1873-rehab-and-recondition/page-3/#p185345</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Epilogue: </p>
<p>I replaced the rear sight with a skinner peep sight. I picked up a screw set from Homestead Gun parts and was able to get the lever spring screws and tang screws replaced. I cleaned up a couple other screw heads too. </p>
<p>I built some dummy 44WCF rounds to test feeding, and everything seemed to be good to go. So I decided to go for it and load it up 10 live rounds.  Starline brass, WLP, Missouri bullet company 210gr black powder bullets, and 2.2cc (36-ish grains) of 3F Swiss. </p>
<p>Average velocity for the 10 rounds was 1200fps and I was able to ring an 8” steel plate consistently at 25 yards. Considering this rifle probably hasn’t been shot in 50+ years, and I have never sighted it in, and I replaced the rear site, I’m extremely happy. Exactly</p>
<p><a href="https://imgur.com/a/96JX07k" target="_blank">IMGUR BP loads</a></p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 11 Oct 2026 23:46:05 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Zebulon on Attention:  Model 07 Gurus, Semi-Gurus, and Virtual Gurus</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185323</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185323</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>Confirmed. </p>
<p>I will say my late "police rifle" style 1907 was very comfortable to shoot compared to a much older one I once owned. I suspect that gun had a worn out buffer. Although I think it would still be a handful if modified to full auto, the late Saul Lebman's conversions were probably not as impractical as I once believed. Because shooting at moving vehicles was a popular Prohibition Era sport, I think the ballistics of the .351 just might have provided that extra edge. </p>
<p>To me, the design of the 1907 (and I presume the 1905 and 1910, as well) action shows off the remarkable talent of T. C. Johnson in evading the network of interlocking patents awarded to JMB to protect the Browning long recoil action. </p>
<p>What is not often mentioned about Johnson is his sense of esthetics, which he apparently passed on to the junior members of the Gun Design Department. Until 1964,  almost all of the really new and particularly the top line, guns created by the department on his watch or as a result of his tutelage, were remarkably sleek and pleasing to the eye. The Model 54 and subsequent 70, the 52 Sporting and 75 Sporting, the Models 12, 50 and 59 shotguns, and the 88 and 100 rifles -- even the Model 37 shotgun was a standout among its competitors. The exception, for some reason, was the Model 61 hammerless. Although it's my next favorite rimfire repeater, it is a little awkward-looking compared to Pedersen's Remington Model 12 and 121.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 11 Oct 2026 14:54:04 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Bert H. on Attention:  Model 07 Gurus, Semi-Gurus, and Virtual Gurus</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185313</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185313</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p>
<strong>Zebulon said </strong></p>
<p>At the range, it fired everything I fed it. I really didn't keep track of where the slugs landed because I was more interested in where the brass was landing. I finally figured out the ejection port needed to be centered in and up against the open end of the brass catcher net, to trap the flying cases, which are <em><strong>ejected at high velocity in random directions</strong></em> from the port. But the gun itself never failed to fire, eject and reload smoothly. <br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>It seems that all of the Winchester S.L.R. center fire rifles suffer that very same malady.</p>
<p>Bert</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sat, 10 Oct 2026 23:27:48 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Zebulon on Attention:  Model 07 Gurus, Semi-Gurus, and Virtual Gurus</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185311</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p185311</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>In looking over this thread, I see I left the issue hanging about why my 07 wouldn't fire at the range. Everybody who participated knows what happened via messaging and emails but, for the sake of posterity,  the problem was a sticky internal safety lever. When carrying to the range, I broke the 07 down and stowed it in a Boyt takedown case. It hadn't been taken down very much over its life and the fit is very stiff and the edges of the parts sharp and unworn. Apparently, it is possible to reassemble the two halves, cinch down the takedown screw and not have the internal lever retract because the two halves are not quite aligned. Three of us looked the gun over when it failed to fire and saw nothing untoward. </p>
<p>In any event, I brushed a lot of Kroil into and around the little lever assembly, dried everything off, sprayed all the moving surfaces with BreakFree CLP and let it set overnight. I reassembled the gun and function checked it with the 10 dummy rounds I'd made up, pulling the trigger on each chambered round to hear it strike the dead primer. I carried it to the range assembled. </p>
<p>At the range, it fired everything I fed it. I really didn't keep track of where the slugs landed because I was more interested in where the brass was landing. I finally figured out the ejection port needed to be centered in and up against the open end of the brass catcher net, to trap the flying cases, which are ejected at high velocity in random directions from the port. But the gun itself never failed to fire, eject and reload smoothly. </p>
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					                    <pubDate>Sat, 10 Oct 2026 22:57:25 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Zebulon on Attention:  Model 07 Gurus, Semi-Gurus, and Virtual Gurus</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p184863</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p184863</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>My paternal grandfather had a 1911. He died the year before I was born so I never got to know him but Dad said he was a duck hunter. Unsurprising, since Grandpa worked most of his life along the Mississippi River and attendant swamps. </p>
<p>At least according to Dad, one reason for the gun's reputation was it could be pretty stiff to cock and chamber the first shell. Shorter or short-armed men sometimes put the butt on the ground, put both hands -- and sometimes their upper body -- over the barrel to push it out of battery. If they lost their grip after the bolt reached the end of its opening stroke, the bolt could slam the shell home and a worn sear could jar off from the impact. Look, Ma -- no hands! And sometimes no head. </p>
<p>I lost a friend back in the Eighties on the opening day of dove season.  He crossed a fence holding his shotgun and took a load of shot full in the chest when the gun jarred off. </p>
<p>For all the fuss and bother about handgun firing pin blocks,  the only shotguns I know of that are drop safe are very expensive sidelock doubles.with intercepting sears. </p>
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					                    <pubDate>Mon, 28 Sep 2026 14:25:46 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Darrin Smith on Attention:  Model 07 Gurus, Semi-Gurus, and Virtual Gurus</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p184861</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/attention-model-07-gurus-semi-gurus-and-virtual-gurus/page-3/#p184861</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>I'm always looking Bert, </p>
<p>the opportunity has not presented yet. I tend to be more mindful of condition recently and apparently the shotguns received heavier use.</p>
<p>Also as I age I'm more aware of any firearm tagged as "The Widow Maker".😃</p>
<p>Darrin</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Mon, 28 Sep 2026 12:57:57 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Chuck on Patches still coming out filthy….dark bore w/strong rifling.  Tips?</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/patches-still-coming-out-filthy-dark-bore-w-strong-rifling-tips/#p184840</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/patches-still-coming-out-filthy-dark-bore-w-strong-rifling-tips/#p184840</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>I have been using this product off and on for a few years.  It is no miracle worker.  Jacketed bullets leave copper and any powder leaves carbon.  You have to remove all the layers of each type of residue.  Who knows the last time the barrel was cleaned to bare metal. Copper is the easiest to remove but hard carbon is a major pain. Use a stiff nylon brush 1 caliber larger than the caliber of the barrel.  As you remove the hard carbon you probably will uncover a layer of copper. I clean after every 50 rounds and with the high pressures the modern target guns produce it is not unusual to have to clean the barrel a half dozen times just to get it almost completely bore scope clean.</p>
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					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 19:33:26 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>1873man on 73 Winchester 3rd Model sporting rifle Cleaning rod</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-3rd-model-sporting-rifle-cleaning-rod/#p184822</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-3rd-model-sporting-rifle-cleaning-rod/#p184822</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>They sell repos here . The rifle and musket rods are shorter than the carbine rods. Also Ebay sells them and you can probably buy a single rod.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.buffaloarms.com/search/?q=cleaning+rods" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.buffaloarms.com/search/?q=cleaning+rods</a></p>
<p>Bob</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 16:11:03 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Darrin Smith on 73 Winchester 3rd Model sporting rifle Cleaning rod</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-3rd-model-sporting-rifle-cleaning-rod/#p184821</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-3rd-model-sporting-rifle-cleaning-rod/#p184821</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://share.google/aimode/P8wgPu6LOKRQPFkje" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://share.google/aimode/P8wgPu6LOKRQPFkje</a></p>
<p>this should cover it.</p>
<p>Darrin</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 15:48:34 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>JSchluter on 73 Winchester 3rd Model sporting rifle Cleaning rod</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-3rd-model-sporting-rifle-cleaning-rod/#p184817</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
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					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>The rifle I have has the trapdoor in the crescent buttplate. Unfortunately, only 2 pieces of the cleaning rod are inside, the jag end and the intermediate section. Does anyone have a photo of the handle section or entire length of the cleaning rod? It may be amongst all the clutter in the shop and I simply don't recognize it. Thanks, and for the info on removing the magazine from the rifle in my other post. The removal went well with no damage. And the Dremel with the wire wheel at slow speed easily removed the crusted oil/dirt with no damage to the patina on the parts-no bright metal.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 14:59:58 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Jim F in CT on '73 Winchester disassembly, inspection and clean-up/lube</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184813</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184813</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p><strong>JSchluter said  . . . . . .</strong>The forend cap anchor appears dovetailed to the barrel as does the capped end anchor. I don't want to damage the thin rolled sheet tube by trying to tap out the dovetailed anchors. . . . . .<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>DO NOT attempt to “tap out” the ring from the barrel!</p>
<p>Although the fastening of the mag tube to the barrel APPERS to use a dovetailed ring, it is NOT! To remove this ring, you must PIVOT the ring out from the barrel.</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 13:33:41 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Bert H. on '73 Winchester disassembly, inspection and clean-up/lube</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184804</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184804</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p>
<strong>TR said </strong><br />
  A stainless steel wheel on a dremel does not sound good. Old tooth brush, Kroil, cotton rag, and maybe 0000 steel wool with oil sounds better. Old grease and light rust will come off with soak time. T/R<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Agreed!</p>
<p>Soak all of the pieces &#038; parts in small tub of 100% pure acetone to remove all of the old dried grease, oil, and gun powder.  If any rust exists, a soak in Kroil and use of a copper wire brush will remove the rust scale.</p>
<p>Bert</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 01:36:56 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>1873man on '73 Winchester disassembly, inspection and clean-up/lube</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184803</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184803</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>0000 steel wool or brass wool and oil will take rust off without harming the finish. </p>
<p>Post pictures of the gun so we can the condition its in.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 01:21:25 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>TR on '73 Winchester disassembly, inspection and clean-up/lube</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184802</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/73-winchester-disassembly-inspection-and-clean-up-lube/#p184802</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<p>  A stainless steel wheel on a dremel does not sound good. Old tooth brush, Kroil, cotton rag, and maybe 0000 steel wool with oil sounds better. Old grease and light rust will come off with soak time. T/R</p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 01:07:05 +0000</pubDate>
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                    <title>Bert H. on Patches still coming out filthy….dark bore w/strong rifling.  Tips?</title>
                    <link>https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/patches-still-coming-out-filthy-dark-bore-w-strong-rifling-tips/#p184796</link>
                    <category>Restoration, Repair and Maintenance</category>
                    <guid isPermaLink="true">https://winchestercollector.org/forum/restoration-repair-and-maintenance/patches-still-coming-out-filthy-dark-bore-w-strong-rifling-tips/#p184796</guid>
					                        <description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p><strong>steve004 said </strong></p>
<blockquote class="spPostEmbedQuote">
<p>Jim F in CT said<br />
I had a “revelation” when cleaning my rifles after using jacketed bullets . . .<br />
What I thought was CLEAN . . . .proved wrong after trying “Thorro Clean”.<br />
Running a Teslong bore scope thru after Thorro Clean, showed a “sparkling” bore!<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Never heard of it - can you tell us more about it?  Others here have any experience with it?<br />
  </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Steve,</p>
<p>I found several good You Tube videos demonstrating it - </p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nALL43ouaQE" target="_blank">Tech Central - How To Clean Your Rifle Using ThorroClean - YouTube</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=thorroclean%20bore%20cleaning%20system&amp;mid=99061E6EDBA2E8052FCD99061E6EDBA2E8052FCD&amp;ajaxhist=0" target="_blank">Bing Videos</a></p>
]]></description>
					                    <pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2026 23:18:47 +0000</pubDate>
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