The láser engraving patterns I've seen replicate the relatively large German-American-style scroll, which really needs to be done in higher relief to resemble a hand engraver's work. 

Because the fine rose-and-vine English scroll work is not so deeply cut but is very profuse, I've wondered what a pattern of it would look like done by programmed láser. The patterns are so dense, the programming might require showing an AI engine the pattern and asking for a machine code translation. 

One purpose of English scrollwork is to hold oil but also to conceal loss of finish. The more it's handled, the better it looks. 

Conversely, the "photographic" or "3 dimensional" portraits created by a series of dots punched into the steel -- Bulino --a very expensive engraving style popularized by the Italians but now seen on some London Best exhibition guns  -- will not tolerate much field use of the gun without fading away. A classic example of extreme decoration that destroys the utility of the object, like 32 LPI checkering. 

I adhere to the late Jack O'Connor's opinion of gun engraving:  "If it is not very well done, it is ghastly."  As for classic Winchesters specifically,  i like to see replicas of the old factory patterns, preferably by an expert hand, but better by well-executed láser production than by an unskilled human.

The combination of hand engraving and acid etching seen on the old Olin-Kodensha 101 shotguns I have aiways thought was pretty nicely done but more extensive than I prefer. FN hit the mark for me with the little engraved fluorishes their factory engravers put on field grade Superposed and Auto-5 shotguns. 

Taste is indisputable, although the lack of it can still make others wince. 

.40-82 Reloading Tool

.40-82 bullet mold

Zebulon said

TXGunNut said
PAST makes a great wearable recoil pad, they even make a magnum model for the serious thumpers. They need to be replaced every five years or so as the cushioning material doesn't age well. This type pad tends to reduce the increase of the length of pull you sometimes get with lace-on recoil pads. 
 
Mike
  

Do you think the PAST material is Sorbothane?  I've wondered if the Limbsaver pads don't lose their effectiveness by hardening up over time. 
You've reminded me I need to order a PAST - mine is circa 1989 and useless. It will be a magnum this time - you know eventually we've got to shoot my 375 Holland, even if it is a post-64.  You can have the honor of the first shot. 
  

Zeb-

Sounds like I need to update my PAST pad as well. Haven't needed it for awhile. Thanks for the warning! 

Mike

TXGunNut said
PAST makes a great wearable recoil pad, they even make a magnum model for the serious thumpers. They need to be replaced every five years or so as the cushioning material doesn't age well. This type pad tends to reduce the increase of the length of pull you sometimes get with lace-on recoil pads. 
 
Mike
  

Do you think the PAST material is Sorbothane?  I've wondered if the Limbsaver pads don't lose their effectiveness by hardening up over time. 

You've reminded me I need to order a PAST - mine is circa 1989 and useless. It will be a magnum this time - you know eventually we've got to shoot my 375 Holland, even if it is a post-64.  You can have the honor of the first shot. 

Mike

We can still use a few more submissions for next year's WACA Member Calendar.  Please email me if you would like to submit something and/or have any questions.  Thanks again!

brad@winchestercollector.org

Dave M. said
Ok guys, shooting a rifle with the cresent buttplate in 44-40 or 32-40 isn't bad.
But shooting a 38-55, 45-70, or 45-90 is just painfull.
Can anyone recommend a slip on recoil pad to help with the discomfort?
Thanks
  

The only calibers I have that are painful are the 45-70's with heavy bullets and the 35 Win.  All the rest aren't bad even with rifle butts. 

Then installed a Decellerator Slip-on pad.

But shooting a 38-55, 45-70, or 45-90 is just painfull.

Can anyone recommend a slip on recoil pad to help with the discomfort?

Thanks

I'd rather have an Originally hand engraved piece as many others would also, but the difference is more than just the engraving, as an Original, can leave a nice hole in the pocket book, but then look what you've got. The Later will appreciate much more than the Laser stuff! IMHO!

Thanks for sharing!

Tony

twobit said
Thought that you all might like seeing this process.
https://www.facebook.com/reel/1630030812076643/?s=single_unit&__cft__%5B0%5D=AZYXRuW_DDHc5f-FsLmcPiK__osyA_Pop3CNX54FsA3AQAoqV7SvvCLTP8tRemmufvbfiYZ-9HobcX6GhNm5hPjkzjHOq0K5wQ24VkxJZ3jEUeDm6YEvi_RHb67ZQq1klDTI_zaV91LAN9FNUx9fwJdLPDE51phRJMsQA4RM47GsiL3GZ18jH1M5t8uI1_gUORFEStHcSJvQR8SyCBCT6ylmYplP9rHpXJajFPQSb661cw&__tn__=H-R
  

How easily can real engraving be determined from laser engraving? Cool video