oldcrankyyankee said

TR said
  I assume you mean a 1891 tool.
  It's simple how they work if you have one in your hand. First turn both large levers in opposite directions to split the tool. Then turn the knurled plug out, left handed threads. Insert the shell casing in the hole you screwed the plug out of, screw the plug down tight, remember let handed threads. Then thread the two big levers back together. The small lever is used to push the primer in. T/R
  

Yes an 1891 tool is correct. So we got the basics sorted out. How is the decapper used? and also the small bushing I found in the end of the left hand threaded plug.  
  

 The decapper is removed from the unmarked lever then slide the spent casing in that lever. Then insert L shaped decapper in the shell case and tap it to extract the primer. The knurled left hand thread plug has in the center a nipple used to expand the shell to accept the bullet. Maybe that's what you call the small bushing. The L shaped decapper is caliber marked, 38,40,45,50 ect. The decapper screws into the lever turning on a screw shank. When tools have swapped parts from other calibers they do not work.

 Now you know why they came out with the 1894 tool. T/R

426crown said
This should help..BILL
 
file:///C:/Users/New%20User/OneDrive/Documents/1894%20loading%20tool%20inst..pdf
  

Not opening.

Mike

file:///C:/Users/New%20User/OneDrive/Documents/1894%20loading%20tool%20inst..pdf

TR said
  I assume you mean a 1891 tool.
  It's simple how they work if you have one in your hand. First turn both large levers in opposite directions to split the tool. Then turn the knurled plug out, left handed threads. Insert the shell casing in the hole you screwed the plug out of, screw the plug down tight, remember let handed threads. Then thread the two big levers back together. The small lever is used to push the primer in. T/R
  

Yes an 1891 tool is correct. So we got the basics sorted out. How is the decapper used? and also the small bushing I found in the end of the left hand threaded plug.  

  It's simple how they work if you have one in your hand. First turn both large levers in opposite directions to split the tool. Then turn the knurled plug out, left handed threads. Insert the shell casing in the hole you screwed the plug out of, screw the plug down tight, remember let handed threads. Then thread the two big levers back together. The small lever is used to push the primer in. T/R

Chuck said

Bill Hockett said
Ben gave me the challenge to price out a Model 1876 rifle based on the 1877 price list so here goes.
$45.00 - Rifle, caliber .45-75 (only caliber available until 1879), 28 inch octagon barrel
$05.00 - Set trigger
$05.00 - fancy, checkered stock
$05.00 - case hardened finish
$60.00 - total price based on the 1877 price list, so that would be three liberty head double eagle $20 gold pieces.
  

Where did you find the information?  The 1879 catalog lists the rifle as $35, set trigger $4, fancy stock $5, checkered stock and forearm $5, Pistol grip, fancy, checkered $15, case hardening $1.
  

I got the information from the Model 1876 prices in the August 1877 price list.  It was a four page list that included the prices for the Models 1866 and 1873, but only the Model 1876 prices were shown in Houze's 1876 book.  See the other thread.

Winchester lowered the prices on the Model 1876 with the May 1, 1878 catalog.  The octagon barrel sporting rifle was reduced from $45.00 to $35.00.

What passes for a dollar ($1.00) in 2026 would only get you 3 cents ($0.03) in 1877.

Jim

Bill Hockett said
Ben gave me the challenge to price out a Model 1876 rifle based on the 1877 price list so here goes.
$45.00 - Rifle, caliber .45-75 (only caliber available until 1879), 28 inch octagon barrel
$05.00 - Set trigger
$05.00 - fancy, checkered stock
$05.00 - case hardened finish
$60.00 - total price based on the 1877 price list, so that would be three liberty head double eagle $20 gold pieces.
  

Where did you find the information?  The 1879 catalog lists the rifle as $35, set trigger $4, fancy stock $5, checkered stock and forearm $5, Pistol grip, fancy, checkered $15, case hardening $1.

Bob,

That make all the sense in the world in my feeble mind.

Thanks!

Tony

The loop is actually the spring that makes the staff snap in place. You can change the position the staff stays at by loosening the nut on the other side and rotate the loop.

Bob

Why does the Lyman Tang Sight have a "loop" at the base of the stem, where it's held onto the base of the sight?

Here's a picture of what I'm asking. Several more could be posted or found, but I chose to keep it simple. 

https://lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/s/i/sight_2_tang_site_installation.pdf

For my simple mind, I'm thinking that it's a simple remedy, or idea when the sights we're first designed, as an easier thought in the field, to stick something in the "Loop", to unscrew the bolt, holding the sight stem to the base to loosen it. The small pocket screw drivers weren't yet available or a leather man tool, as they art today.

Tony