Best Regards,

Are your sure that is not a 1918 Artillery Model?  That is what it looks like to me. But I am certainly no expert, I just sit on them....

Best Regards,

Sincerely,

Maverick

Bob

Henry Mero said
My thoughts prayers and rememberances to Anyone on the forum involved, on that very unforgettable day in American/Canadian history.
  

Henry,

I will never forget that Day! 

Tony

1873man said
Tony you started a good thread here. We all are learning something new. I looked through my parts box and found another style of bushing so I started to look through my guns and I found that the first models have the scallops and not a slot. Where you would need a special tool to remove it. The one with the slot is second model.  I don't know if there is a exact serial number that they changed  but its between 27,000 and 40,000 from a quick look through my gun safe. Tonight I will have more time to look.
Bob

Bob,

Very intriguing. IMHO! You're pictures show us a lot!

Now as I look, I can see the small scallops, vs. the slots! You're picture of the slotted second model bushing, shows the courser threads, as I guessed they would be a finer thread. That's the second guess I had wrong in this thread post! LOL!

I'm thinking maybe due to the B/P, that Winchester figured due to moisture seepage into the threads, over time, that the courser threads would be more applicable.

That surely would require a special tool, as a spanner wrench comes to mind as we used to use, for things as were needed. But a specially made hardened tool, wouldn't be out of the question. Something seewin would make in his shop, as he saw a need for, if he chose. Back in the day before we had the "Crow Foot" wrenches, we would take an extra, open end wrench and cut them on the band saw, and make our own version of a "Crow foot" wrench, welding an old socket we cut apart for the 1/2 inch square drive section to fit on an extension, to remove the hydraulic lines, that we're stacked up against a bank of hose fittings on the hydraulic control valves, on a said machine as we needed. I remember years ago talking to George Madis on the phone about his tractor, and telling him that story. He had that chuckle for a laugh, that I'll never forget. Crazy as we would submerse the hot parts we made in oil, to harden them, somewhat. Still have those old homemade tools and such, as we'll wind up handing them down to a couple youngsters we're schooling. 

Looking forward to you're added information.

Tony

I've received the last couple of long guns I've bought, shipped in the manner Martin uses and they came safely to hand. I might throw in a couple packs of silica gel if I used that method, in case the box got shipped by mistake to Outer Slobovia. 

Bob

You fell under the "quality opinions", category which I appreciated.

steve004 said
Tony -
Thanks for posting this.  Like so many threads here, it's an opportunity to increase my knowledge.  
  

You're welcome Steve,

As we've talked in the past, it's part of adding and keeping this Forum rolling. I too have learned a few things here.

Has anyone ever used a flat bladed screwdriver, and tried to, or removed the bushing in one of these early examples? I would sure imagine it would be a lot easier with the bolt out, and a straight, head on approach to the bolt face, for a solid fit of the blade. I would imagine these could be pretty tight, being in there so long, and probably torqued in on original installment. 

The bolt secured in a jaw protected vise, to avoid the teeth marks on the bolt, with a larger quality screwdriver with the added hex on the shaft of the driver below the handle would probably be the right tool for this application. IMO Once the threads were cracked loose, the driver can then be used to remove this bushing by hand turning the screwdriver in the larger slot.

Tony