it appears i noticed too late the warning not to cock the bolt with the safety engaged. now the bolt won’t come out of the action. any advice?

Thanks for the additional info- my issue was not the safety being jammed or stuck- it would move freely. The ‘button’ would click but the bolt would only move maybe 1/2 inch, then no more. I fiddled with it some more & sprayed it with lube- it finally released & I was able to remove the bolt. No hammering involved! Thanks again for the response.

JWA said
Glad you were able to get it resolved peacefully!

While you have the bolt out check the firing pin, they sometimes break and can cause the bolt to hang-up like you describe.  The firing pin is very long and when it breaks into 2 pieces it is not readily apparent and the gun will still function most of the time except for an occasional sticky bolt.

Regards,  

Winchester model 74 feed and function problems.

I write this to help others with similar problems with the win 74 22LR

Introduction: There are very little information on this model, schematics not correct and hard to read, there have been many modifications during this model, and no way to know exactly what you have. It is a novel and simple design that functions fine—when all details are correct. One thing to note is firing pin can be bought and also the two main springs—the recoil and striker spring— but all have to be “Fitted” to the rifle. Using a Black Sharpie to “paint” the tang end of the firing pin will help to identify “Binding and correction. The spring fitting has to consider—the diameter of the spring increase when compressed—and both the striker and recoil spring can bind in the recesses of the bolt halves and bunch up before the bolt faces. There was some tendency for the recoil spring end to squeeze past the stationary bolt spring stop and stick into the sear release notch. A small washer made from the end of a common hack saw blade—that was drilled to same diameter as the hole in the removal stationary bolt – seems to fix that. Both the springs may have to be shortened a little to prevent them from bunching up while cocking. Also a little flaring of the hole of the striker spring on the movable bolt where the spring begins seems to help also. Part of my problem was—- there where no detail specs or dimensions to go by.

What helped a lot—was to obtain a working complete bolt assembly to put in my rifle and it worked well—then to carefully disassemble it to see what is need for it to function correctly. ( now I have 2 functioning bolt assemblies— with the difference being the obtained bolt – from Ebay—- may have had a little weaker springs from use—but it would fire both standard and high velocity ammo with out and feed problems—where

My rebuilt rifle may have stronger springs and while shoots high velocity ammo fine—but have feed jams one out of 10 shots with standard velocity ammo— but will leave it alone now—fine with high velocity ammo) Another note: Trying to find the exact 2 springs was at first difficult. I carefully measured the coil diameter and wire diameter of the 2 springs and tried to find replacement from industrial spring sources—could not find exact or close match—the springs from “GunSprings” seem to be exact dimensions (as measured with digital Vernier Caliper). Also note: that little “Wing” midway on the firing pin to ride in the movable bolt slide— may not be necessary. My original firing pin did not have it or a tang and the far end of the may not have had such. Upon firing the release sear slides along a long flat slotted portion of the pin— and upon recoil travels back a long this potion until it “Clicks into Cock”. It seems little or no way for the pin to rotate.

(my fitting of my first few firing pins—cut off the tang—– found upon firing the firing pin would travel back and jam the blunt end – into the little hole at the back and get the firing pin stuck—and not function—- so then I used the tang part on other firing pins I fitted). But for the rebuild of my rifle I adjusted the tang and keep the little nib that slides in the movable bolt to keep alignment of the cocking notch.

Feeding problems, providing testing the cartridge catchers stops correctly. It seems there are some physical timing of the ejection and feeding to occur correctly. Slow manual operations—seems to have tendency to jame—It seems what works best is—to quickly pull the bolt back and release— it seems like normal design operation. The following is all I had to do to get my Win 74 to function correctly and think it will help others.

My first rifle was the Winchester model 74 22LR, had it for 65 years. At age 15 went into centerfire and hunting with father and friends, they are no longer with us.
I dug out my 74, cleaned it up and took it to the range– to my surprise– it didn’t shoot– not know why. Took it to gunsmith– they had it for 5 months– then say– because of the Covid 19– to busy for it– so I took it back. They gave me a bag of busted springs and and broken firing pin– that rotated. At first– I didn’t want to take the bolt apart– not sure how to put it together— but now won’t hurt to look at it myself. I saw on the Youtube– how to take the bolt apart and put it back together. I found on the internet– gun parts– that there seems to be many variations of what the firing pin should be. Most concerned about the little key-way on the mid part of the pin that keeps it orientation while cocking to keep the notch in position for the catching sear. I found on the internet– many variations– some with no keyway part and some with no thin little half inch long x 1/16 dia tail at the end of the pin(think that goes in the back stationary bolt– that locks the bolt with pin is cocks– so you can’t press the bolt release to remove bolt when cocked). Anyway– you can find correct firing pins from Midway— they need fitting– the tail piece dia and the firing pin end. You can find these 2 springs at Gunsprings. but again all this needs fitting. The problem seems to be to cut spring so they don’t bunch up from the recoil and not allow travel to cock, and to keep the firing pin spring end from jamming into the back stationary bolt into the notch and sear. if that happens– the gun is cocked and the safety end in the bolt– keeps you from removing the bolt. it is very difficult to remove the total bolt . I was lucky. I was thinking about removing that little tang at the end. My old pin did not have a tang. but the pins I tried without the tang– had a tendency to jam a little into this back small hole and dent the back of the pin and jam it tight. When the bolt and pin jump back after firing– the pin may continue back after the bolt stops. I was thinking— pushing a stop into the little hole– to stop the back on the pin from jamming. Again– my rifle did not have a tang on the back pin– it did have marks where it hit the little hole edges at the end– but never had a problem. So now you have it– the only last thing to say– is your thumbs get sore from holding the springs back while reassemble the bolt to put the slider stop pin back in place.

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